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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unpublished
Page Views: 2,078 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

One of my personal favorites at The Gym, Cimmaron Lanes starts up just right of the block/dihedral that will greet you 50 ft right of the end of the trail. Run technical edges and pockets for 80 ft to reach a belay. Most parties bail out after finishing this crux pitch, however, the second pitch although modest is a real kick. Surmount the intimidating bulge above the belay on big pockets, bomber gear (a bit committing), and fun moves. The anchor is on the lip-like-ledge above.

Frankly, this line needs to be done in both pitches because the first pitch, alone, is not sufficiently distinguished from a slew of other 5.11 face climbs. This may give Cimmaron Lanes the amusing distinction of climbing a harder pitch just to get to the easy pitch.

Protection

Eight to ten draws and a rope. Double bolt belay anchors are present at the top of each pitch. One can descend from the top to the ground with double ropes.

Photos

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Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
The lower pitch is 4ft of awkward crimpy thugging then it's over, like the bouldery Metropolis for reference. Not really continuous 5.11 enough for the classic status this one earns for me. 5 hours ago
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Fantastic rock climb. Jan 31, 2016
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I agree with you, Julia! I also didn't find it reachy, I am 5 ft. tall, so there must be intermediates or high feet, because I didn't notice working harder than my peers who varied in height. May 18, 2015
Julia
 
Julia  
 
This is a really great climb! The movement up the clean bottom section is tricky and fun. Highly suggest this climb! May 18, 2015
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Hardware upgrade 11/30/14 & Spring 2014.
Hardware supplied by Bruno Hache.
Upgrade Bruno Hache/Irina Overeem/Nate Liles/Kari Fagnan.
Great tag team team work.
Do this route! Classic at the grade, it keeps you on your toes the whole way up. Dec 18, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes. Aug 12, 2014
b hof
Pueblo West, CO
  5.11d
b hof   Pueblo West, CO
  5.11d
I agree with Mike, the crux on this thing felt hard for the grade and would make for a proud on sight. Nov 30, 2013
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
I'm sure I was doing the move wrong, but I thought the crux of this route was extremely hard, more on par with the other 12's at Shelf. Who knows, I was climbing it in direct sunlight. It is a very good route though. Mar 21, 2005
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
I think, Mark, you are talking about dropping the right hand into the crux pocket (?). I have a positive 8 inch ape index, and was not overly stressed to reach it. Again, if I recollect correctly, this was not a problem of toes-to-tips reach. I do recall the high step gambit, but did not log the exact move in my notes. I think either will work - if you have the wing-span it is probably easier to make the stretch. Nov 2, 2001
I thought the crux move (pitch 1) was horrendously reachy -- until my diminutive partner high stepped through it with ease. Solid for the grade; fun moves and excellent rock. Nov 2, 2001