Type: Sport
FA: unpublished
Page Views: 2,235 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

One of my personal favorites at The Gym, Cimmaron Lanes starts up just right of the block/dihedral that will greet you 50 ft right of the end of the trail. Run technical edges and pockets for 80 ft to reach a belay. Most parties bail out after finishing this crux pitch, however, the second pitch although modest is a real kick. Surmount the intimidating bulge above the belay on big pockets, bomber gear (a bit committing), and fun moves. The anchor is on the lip-like-ledge above.

Frankly, this line needs to be done in both pitches because the first pitch, alone, is not sufficiently distinguished from a slew of other 5.11 face climbs. This may give Cimmaron Lanes the amusing distinction of climbing a harder pitch just to get to the easy pitch.

Protection

Eight to ten draws and a rope. Double bolt belay anchors are present at the top of each pitch. One can descend from the top to the ground with double ropes.

Photos

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I thought the crux move (pitch 1) was horrendously reachy -- until my diminutive partner high stepped through it with ease. Solid for the grade; fun moves and excellent rock. Nov 2, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11d
I think, Mark, you are talking about dropping the right hand into the crux pocket (?). I have a positive 8 inch ape index, and was not overly stressed to reach it. Again, if I recollect correctly, this was not a problem of toes-to-tips reach. I do recall the high step gambit, but did not log the exact move in my notes. I think either will work - if you have the wing-span it is probably easier to make the stretch. Nov 2, 2001
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
I'm sure I was doing the move wrong, but I thought the crux of this route was extremely hard, more on par with the other 12's at Shelf. Who knows, I was climbing it in direct sunlight. It is a very good route though. Mar 21, 2005
b hof
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11d
b hof   Santa Clarita, CA
  5.11d
I agree with Mike, the crux on this thing felt hard for the grade and would make for a proud on sight. Nov 30, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes. Aug 12, 2014
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Hardware upgrade 11/30/14 & Spring 2014.
Hardware supplied by Bruno Hache.
Upgrade Bruno Hache/Irina Overeem/Nate Liles/Kari Fagnan.
Great tag team team work.
Do this route! Classic at the grade, it keeps you on your toes the whole way up. Dec 18, 2014
Julia
 
Julia  
 
This is a really great climb! The movement up the clean bottom section is tricky and fun. Highly suggest this climb! May 18, 2015
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I agree with you, Julia! I also didn't find it reachy, I am 5 ft. tall, so there must be intermediates or high feet, because I didn't notice working harder than my peers who varied in height. May 18, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Fantastic rock climb. Jan 31, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
The lower pitch is 4ft of awkward crimpy thugging then it's over, like the bouldery Metropolis for reference. Not really continuous 5.11 enough for the classic status this one earns for me. Dec 10, 2017