Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Dave Dangle, Richard Aschert, 2004
Page Views: 1,169 total · 6/month
Shared By: Edward Jenner on May 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

First a disclaimer - I only top roped this route, but it is good enough that I thought it was worth adding to the site (my partner who led it would certainly not get around to it).

The climb is called "Trailer Park Logic" and is rated 5.9+ in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guide. It is listed as "Unknown" in Van Horn's guide as number 15 in the Gym section at 11b/c. It appeared to have a second pitch, which may warrant the 11b rating, but we only climbed the first pitch which felt about mid-10.

The climb is the first left of "I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like" on the Pinhead Wall. It starts in a corner with 2 bolts and goes left of a crack system, through a black bulge and meets up with the crack which veers left to join the route above the bulge. Very well bolted. Straight through the bulge is entertaining and only 10c due to good hands and feet, however there is certainly a temptation to go right into the crack a bit, which may be slightly easier.

Fun climb; another good 10 in the area.

Protection

For Pitch 1 - 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

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