Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Daryl Roth & Mark Van Horn 1987
Page Views: 742 total · 6/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This is an overlooked gem and may be, in my opinion, the hardest 5.11 at Shelf.

Begin below an obvious overhanging crack on the black rock of the Carb Wall (which is just right of Combustion Wall). The crack is hard and you will mistakenly feel like you pulled the crux after cranking through it. The crux comes in pulling onto the slightly less than vertical section above the crack. This section is pretty blank with just a meager couple of fingertip monos to pull on.

I thought the crux was as hard as the crux of The Ejection Seat, but YMMV.

Location

Carb Wall (Combustion Wall right side).

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

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Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Hardware uograde by Nate 11/21/14.
Top anchor supplied Bruno Hache, a few spinner SMC hangers lead bolts re-drilled with ASCA.
Special thanks to ASCA for the hardware. Dec 18, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
It's a good rock climb in the 5.12a range. Not quite as good as its neighbor, I Am A Machine.... Jan 30, 2016