Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Rich Aschert, Bob D, Ed Quesada
Page Views: 727 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 23, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This line offers some interesting climbing and an outstanding position, but unfortunately the rock is consistently poor throughout the first 6 bolts of climbing.

Stick clip the first bolt, and make awkward moves to gain the hanging dihedral. Easy liebacking & stemming work up and left along the crumbling corner. When the dihedral ends, pumpy moves lead to a stance at the corner of the big roof. The crux ascends the awkward crack on great rock to bigger holds near the top of the wall.

Location Suggest change

The next route right of Penetentiary Pump, or the 2nd route right of Librium Quiver, ascending a shallow dihedral immediately left of a low, enormous roof.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.