Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 831 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

On the the left side Combustion Wall, this starts immediately left of Lockdown. From the 3rd bolt, it diagonals up and right, joining Lockdown for its upper half, while Fly Little Super Boy continues straight up. I guess it's kind of a linkup, but it isn't clear from Fred's guide which of these routes came first (presumably it came before Bob's recent contribution, Lockdown).

The climbing is good, with a crux coming around the 2nd bolt. The bolts on the upper half after it joins Lockdown are spaced pretty honestly compared to the routes to the right, The Smoking Pickle and Spontaneous Combustion. Probably on the easier side of 12a... and definitely easier than the 11d's over to the right (I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like, VHS or Beta).

Location

This is on the Combustion Wall.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

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slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Good route that is a bit easier (in some ways) than the surrounding 12a's but makes up for it in other ways.... Getting to the 3rd bolt is a little bit in your grill. Top part isn't hard but isn't super casual considering the bolt spacing and occasional friable rock. May 4, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
As the name implies and the classic status, this is a great one. Similar in nature to the other routes at this wall, there is a crux band that runs throughout the bottom for the first 3 bolts of this entire wall. The crux is short lived on the real deal, much like Spontaneous Combustion and The Smoking Pickle, where is slabs out and gets much easier to the top.... Jan 31, 2016