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Elevation: 7,050 ft
GPS: 38.6329, -105.2165
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 167,689 total · 568/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There Suggest change

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

86 Total Climbs

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Location: The Gym Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gym

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 401
Ga-stoned Again
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 278
The Crack of Dawn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 139
Crystal
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 316
The Raw and the Roasted
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 169
Pulley Mammoth
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 141
In the Morning, You'll Be Mine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 163
The Gym Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 68
Spontaneous Combustion
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 114
The Ejection Seat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 43
Gym Arete Direct
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 33
Ejection Generation
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 52
Head Cheese
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 37
My Generation
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 42
The Example
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 29
Deeper Shade Of Soul
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ga-stoned Again
 401
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Crack of Dawn
 278
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crystal
 139
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Raw and the Roasted
 316
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Pulley Mammoth
 169
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
In the Morning, You'll Be Mine
 141
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Gym Arete
 163
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spontaneous Combustion
 68
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Ejection Seat
 114
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Gym Arete Direct
 43
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ejection Generation
 33
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Head Cheese
 52
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
My Generation
 37
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Example
 42
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Deeper Shade Of Soul
 29
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Gym »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast · East · Southeast
Sunny Roughly 6am to 2pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The crag starts facing due east at the New Gym, these routes get shade early. As one travels right, the wall faces more Southeast. Many of the popular routes face north-east and get shade around noon but the Ejection Wall loses sun in the early afternoon.

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