Elevation: 7,050 ft
GPS: 38.633, -105.217 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,064 total · 339/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999 with improvements by Adam Block
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

83 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gym

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 249
Ga-stoned Again
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 181
The Crack of Dawn
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 75
Shorty Bob
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 80
Urban Fringe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
Morning Stretch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 84
Crystal
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 181
The Raw and the Roasted
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 102
Pulley Mammoth
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 82
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 103
The Gym Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 38
Spontaneous Combustion
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
The Smoking Pickle
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 80
The Ejection Seat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Gym Arete Direct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 45
Head Cheese
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ga-stoned Again
 249
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Crack of Dawn
 181
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shorty Bob
 75
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Urban Fringe
 80
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Morning Stretch
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystal
 84
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Raw and the Roasted
 181
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Pulley Mammoth
 102
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
 82
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Gym Arete
 103
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spontaneous Combustion
 38
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Smoking Pickle
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Ejection Seat
 80
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Gym Arete Direct
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Head Cheese
 45
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Gym »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast · East · Southeast
Sunny Roughly 6am to 2pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The crag starts facing due east at the New Gym, these routes get shade early. As one travels right, the wall faces more Southeast. Many of the popular routes face north-east and get shade around noon but the Ejection Wall loses sun in the early afternoon.

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos

Legs Magillicutty   Durango
There is a route that is located a few routes right of Gastoned. The first 2 bolts are homemade. It's pockety, very positive and extremely dirty. I knocked a huge block down from the left of this route this weekend. No one was hurt. I barely touched it and POW!!! The mid point of the route is pretty clean. Up by the anchors it gets dirty again. Anyone have any idea what this route is and what it is rated? Felt like a 9 maybe? My partner quessed 10a?? Feb 27, 2008
A note of history that I haven't seen anywhere... the first route put up at The Gym was "VHS or Beta". I chose it because of the high quality stone. Due to the thin holds and less traveled location, it doesn't see much traffic, but it certainly typifies the style of climbing that was predominant in those early days of Shelf. Dec 1, 2010