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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Description

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gym

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ga-stoned Again
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Crack of Dawn
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots!
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Urban Fringe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Stretch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
The Raw and the Roasted
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pulley Mammoth
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Gym Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Smoking Pickle
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
The Ejection Seat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete Direct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Head Cheese
Sport
Ga-stoned Again 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Crack of Dawn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
She's Got a Full Set of Cam… 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Shorty Bob 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Urban Fringe 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Morning Stretch 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystal 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Raw and the Roasted 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Pulley Mammoth 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Gym Arete 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Smoking Pickle 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Ejection Seat 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Gym Arete Direct 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Head Cheese 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
A note of history that I haven't seen anywhere... the first route put up at The Gym was "VHS or Beta". I chose it because of the high quality stone. Due to the thin holds and less traveled location, it doesn't see much traffic, but it certainly typifies the style of climbing that was predominant in those early days of Shelf. Dec 1, 2010
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
There is a route that is located a few routes right of Gastoned. The first 2 bolts are homemade. It's pockety, very positive and extremely dirty. I knocked a huge block down from the left of this route this weekend. No one was hurt. I barely touched it and POW!!! The mid point of the route is pretty clean. Up by the anchors it gets dirty again. Anyone have any idea what this route is and what it is rated? Felt like a 9 maybe? My partner quessed 10a?? Feb 27, 2008

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