Elevation: 7,050 ft
GPS: 38.633, -105.217 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 71,028 total · 306/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

80 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gym

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 232
Ga-stoned Again
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
The Crack of Dawn
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots!
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 73
Shorty Bob
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 77
Urban Fringe
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 66
Morning Stretch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 78
Crystal
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 171
The Raw and the Roasted
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 98
Pulley Mammoth
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 78
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 96
The Gym Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Spontaneous Combustion
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 78
The Ejection Seat
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 32
Gym Arete Direct
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 43
Head Cheese
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ga-stoned Again
 232
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Crack of Dawn
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
She's Got a Full Set of Cam…
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Shorty Bob
 73
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Urban Fringe
 77
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Morning Stretch
 66
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystal
 78
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Raw and the Roasted
 171
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Pulley Mammoth
 98
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine
 78
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Gym Arete
 96
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spontaneous Combustion
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Ejection Seat
 78
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Gym Arete Direct
 32
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Head Cheese
 43
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Gym »

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Legs Magillicutty   Durango
There is a route that is located a few routes right of Gastoned. The first 2 bolts are homemade. It's pockety, very positive and extremely dirty. I knocked a huge block down from the left of this route this weekend. No one was hurt. I barely touched it and POW!!! The mid point of the route is pretty clean. Up by the anchors it gets dirty again. Anyone have any idea what this route is and what it is rated? Felt like a 9 maybe? My partner quessed 10a?? Feb 27, 2008
A note of history that I haven't seen anywhere... the first route put up at The Gym was "VHS or Beta". I chose it because of the high quality stone. Due to the thin holds and less traveled location, it doesn't see much traffic, but it certainly typifies the style of climbing that was predominant in those early days of Shelf. Dec 1, 2010