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The New Vernacular
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 47
votes
Routes in The Gym
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Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Willie V1-2 5 |
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Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Thompson & Lin |
| Page Views: | 2,274 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Sep 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The guidebook raves about this route (the author was the first ascensionist), and while it has some excellent climbing and excellent rock, it is basically a discontinuous squeeze job from which it is possible at several points to step over to Natty Dread or Gastoned Again.
There is a hard move at the first bolt, then easy climbing. There is a much harder than anything else crux passing a looks-like-the-crux bulge around the fifth bolt which can be avoided at 5.11 by making a move left to ND, a move up and then back R to TNV (TNV is 11+ done this way). Some much easier climbing follows to a roof. From the roof to the top is an excellent passage of thin off-vertical face climbing.
There is a hard move at the first bolt, then easy climbing. There is a much harder than anything else crux passing a looks-like-the-crux bulge around the fifth bolt which can be avoided at 5.11 by making a move left to ND, a move up and then back R to TNV (TNV is 11+ done this way). Some much easier climbing follows to a roof. From the roof to the top is an excellent passage of thin off-vertical face climbing.
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