Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,168 total · 4/month
Shared By: montay on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

To locate this route, use the directions to find "Pinhead" and "Easy Cheese" to get yourself to the base of the "Head Cheese" roof. "Five Dollars" is three routes to the right of Easy Cheese.

This route is almost great. If only the first half was as good as the last half....

Begin this route by weedwhacking up on poor rock. You can honestly feel it sag if you step on a certain hold. The rock doesn't look particularly bad, but drum on it a bit and it will make you laugh. The good news is that there aren't any bolts drilled in this choss. The bad news is that the first bolt is about 25 feet up, and you have to commit to a mini-roof block jug to clip it. At first this is a bit intimidating due to the rubble you have gotten used to. Take heart though, because the rock from the roof to the anhors is bomber.

After you have clipped this first bolt, pull the mini roof onto a nice little ledge. The next clip is pretty awkward. After you have clipped this, slab your way up prickly friction face with some small pockets. Expect a couple dicey clips on the last 4 bolts.

If your footwork is as bad as mine was on this route, you can pretty much prepare to get your backside paddled.

Protection Suggest change

Van Horn says 4 bolts. Select 200 says 7 bolts. I think it was 6 bolts and anchors.