Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, John Steiger, 1987
Page Views: 778 total · 13/month
Shared By: slim on May 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a great, old Shelf route that features some cool climbing on improbable pockets at a reasonable grade.

Start up the left side of the orange dihedral on climbing that isn't hard, but the rock is a bit friable. Get established near the semi-hanging, spooky flake beneath the bulge, try to get a peek at the climbing above, and launch upwards through really fun pocket pulling.

The rock through the bulge and above is excellent, and the climbing is really fun.

Location

This is on the right half of the Spontaneous Combustion Wall. It is the first route to the left of Pinhead. Start up an orange, slightly chossy dihedral.

Protection

Approximately 7 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Hardware uograde by Nate 11/21/14.
Top anchor supplied Bruno Hache, a few spinner SMC hangers lead bolts re-drilled with ASCA.
Special thanks to ASCA for the hardware. Dec 18, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Bruno, for the rebolt. How this climb is not four star and classic status is beyond me. Fantastic upper crux in the black bulge is a lot like New Ethics. Rad rock climb! Jan 24, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
This route deserves much more traffic. The upper headwall has some incredible pockets and great flow. The bottom 2-3 bolts is definitely throw away climbing and detracts a bit, but the upper part is completely worth it. Oct 30, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Bring a stickclip and gardening tools for the belay area. Great pockets and only one gentle mono needed on a cool balancey move. The bulge is best not attacked head on, and it feels natural to use the pillar out right at times. Oct 22, 2018