[Hide Comment] This is really an outstanding route for the grade. I can't think of many 11+ routes at shelf that have better rock, better pockets, or more interesting moves. The only drawback would be the sharpness of the coral, but that's pretty much par for the course. I thought the long span right at the start was pretty powerful, but the pocket pulling about is spectacular. Mar 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] Yes, this is indeed a sweet, sweet route. I wish it were longer and steeper, then I could give it an other star. Amazingly this route is not that traveled. There is not a lot of chalk on it marking the holds and there is sand in the pockets. It actually makes for some interesting route finding. Go right and you might find it feeling hard for the grade. Feb 3, 2006

[Hide Comment] Climbed this line yesterday and will have to go back next weekend for the redpoint. What an exceptional line with a little bit of everything - big powerful moves on overhanging jugs and crimps to start the climb, straight into a series of finger pockets at about the third & fourth bolt make up the crux, and then a big high step or reach to some sharp coral pinches get you over the bulge to the juggy slab finish. Do take your time and regain your composure on the slab as a fall there would suck. When you're gunning for the fourth bolt, there's a small two finger pocket with a great thumb catch that sits right and even with the bolt which makes that clip significantly easier if you can find it. You can't see it until you're eye level but it's an inch higher than the other obvious pocket beneath which is SHARP!

There was barely any chalk on this climb before we got on it, but we did chalk the holds we used to work the line. Definitely needs to see more traffic as it's an awesome climb at the grade. the 3rd bolt was a tad loose, so we'll try and wrench it the next time we're out. Enjoy. Oct 19, 2009

[Hide Comment] Awesome headwall and rock quality all the way through; thought there were a couple cruxy moves. The top, though sharp in places, has a few hidden, incut holds that are actually very friendly and sequential. With perfect beta through the headwall/slab transition, you shouldn't need to aggressively grab anything significantly sharper than Shelf standards. Dec 3, 2012

[Hide Comment] My inner knee can attest to the insanely sharp rock...but the smile on my face after finishes could care less. With that said, amazing route. Highly enjoyable big move (depending on your height) to kick it off followed by hidden incuts and pockets. They're there...just make sure you grab the right one...there's plenty of phonies. A definitely do if an 11+ climber in the gym! Oct 20, 2013

[Hide Comment] Upgraded with new hardware Spring 2014.
Gear supplied by Bruno Hache.
Fun route! Dec 18, 2014

[Hide Comment] Sharp and amazing, one of the best routes I have done at Shelf. Dec 16, 2016

[Hide Comment] Surprised no one is ever on this sunny gem while there's always a fat queue to shiver up the slimy Gym Arete. The 12a effect in action. This climbs very similar to (and is a good trainer/warm-up route for) the Ejection Wall with impeccable stone and fun pumpy sequences. 11s don't get much steeper or more quality at Shelf! Nov 14, 2019

[Hide Comment] So I don’t down grade anything really, but this didn’t feel like an 11d personally. 11b/c at best. However I did watch two of my friends try it, and I managed to flash it, even at the end of the day with sore tips, but who the hell cares about a grade anyway? It’s a super sick line, and I’d have no problem getting on it again!!! Oct 10, 2020

[Hide Comment] Short and powerful. Easier for a boulderer climbing in that grade range. Not much endurance needed. Oct 20, 2021