Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This new route occurred primarily by the vision and dedication of Joseph Healy in 2005. Its an adventurous climb with some serious sections with some classic basalt features.
Pitch 1: 5.8 Climb the first pitch of Young Warriors. This pitch contains several bolts and small gear placements
Pitch 2: 5.9 From the top of pitch 1 of Y.W. move right to a shallow left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral and the arete formed by it to a small ledge and bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10a Move left from the anchor and up the face to a thin crack past a fixed pin and through several mossy ledges to another 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.11 This crux pitch goes straight up from the anchor to a steep left facing dihedral. Climb to a changing corners area and traverse right around arete (crux). This move can be protected by a medium size cam placed low. Belay at two bolts.
Pitch 5: 5.10 Move up a steep slab and protect with loweballs to a steep mantle. Clip fixed pin and then climb up to a large roof. Pull roof and climb up loose blocks to an anchor on yellow rock in an alcove.
Pitch 6: 5.9 Move left around a corner and up diagonally left angling cracks on a face to top out. Be careful as this area might be loose.
Descent: Continue on 4th class moss up and left to the guardrail and tourist path. The route can be rapped at any point with two ropes but would be ill advised up higher on route.
Protection
-1 set of wires, -Double set of cams to #3 Camalot including Loweballs, -quickdraws and long slings -all anchors are large Metolius hangers -shoes may be nice for walk-off
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