The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Mad Dog is to the right of King Cat and left of Bad Cat and Johnny Cat, respectively. Start up the broken blocks and enter the crack. A finger stack crux move or two puts one under the roof for a rest. Pull the roof on splitter thin hands to hands before reaching the anchor. The trick is to milk the small calcite(sp?) edges on the left face.
Protection
Friends: #1(2), #1.5(4), #2(4), #2.5(2). Good fixed anchor. 80'
By Josh Ewing From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 5, 2008 rating: 5.11+
A tricky route that feels sequential down low. A smaller piece (yellow) can protect standing up on the ledge to start the crack proper. Take some #1.5 friends and a couple of green camalots. The splitter out the roof fits #1 camalots best. You'll probably only need one #2 camalot for the finish.
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