PRINT: Rock Climb Mad Dog, Indian Creek

Mad Dog

5.11c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 97 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cat Wall

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Mad Dog is to the right of King Cat and left of Bad Cat and Johnny Cat, respectively. Start up the broken blocks and enter the crack. A finger stack crux move or two puts one under the roof for a rest. Pull the roof on splitter thin hands to hands before reaching the anchor. The trick is to milk the small calcite(sp?) edges on the left face.

Protection

Friends: #1(2), #1.5(4), #2(4), #2.5(2). Good fixed anchor. 80'

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber on "Mad Dog"

Joey on Mad Dog

Lindsay leading Mad Dog

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Shainman
Lakewood, CO

FA: The Banditos, of course. Sep 8, 2007

Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT

5.11+

A tricky route that feels sequential down low. A smaller piece (yellow) can protect standing up on the ledge to start the crack proper. Take some #1.5 friends and a couple of green camalots. The splitter out the roof fits #1 camalots best. You'll probably only need one #2 camalot for the finish. Mar 5, 2008

MTN MIA
Vail

This is sooooooo super fun!!! Another one of my faves at this wall. Although not in the same league as Curiosity. but nothing is.
A few BD#0.5 followed by several BD#0.75, with a BD#1 finish. Nov 16, 2013

michalm

5.11+

The anchor now has two 1/2" SS 5-piece bolts with chain courtesy of the ASCA. The Banditos "No Gud" aluminum hanger was left for posterity. Oct 16, 2018

Matthew Tangeman
SW Colorado

Bring more reds than greens (C4s). I think around 3 BD .75s would be fine, but #1s go in anywhere after just under the roof. Feb 3, 2021

brent b

onsite, don't run it out , BD rack:

.4 (x1), .5 (x3) , .75(x3) #1 (x4), #2 (x2). Nov 29, 2021

Zachary Winters
Winthrop, WA

5.11+

The sandy start can be decently protected by a red alien sized piece. Also, I recommend slinging out your first several pieces, being mindful of the ledge. I had an annoying experience with the rope getting sucked into the crack - the small bulge low can get ya. Dec 5, 2021