Rosy Crucifixion 

Agreed, and any "sport-climb" feel the route may have thanks to the fat new bolts right at the 5.10 cruxes (which, incidentally is what led me to attempt the climb as my second 5.10 lead, way back in the, uh, day--I just about puked when I got to the belay) quickly evaporates while one dinks around with tricky small cam placements (or even trickier nutting) on the remaining 5.9 of pitch one, not to mention on the Dalke 5.9ish pitch two--all from marginal, pumpy stances. Did I mention that Rosy is (along with Yellow Spur) my favorite climb in Eldo?

here is an attempt to describe how to get to the first pitch: from the top of the lower Ramp, just before you get to Ruper et al, head right over some blocks to a short easy dihedral/pillar. Go up that (easy 5th), then down the other side to a sloping ramp that leads down to the start of the route (which is indeed a fantastic route!).

I did this route with George on 3/4 and it is not 10a. Not even for Eldo. I talked with Jim Erickson (first person to free this route) and he thinks it is 10c (though he rated it 5.9+ back then). Id say 10c/d if you combine the first two pitches (recommended because of the nice belay atop pitch 2, but PUMPY!) It seems harder than Tagger (10c), Superslab (10d), and Disappearing Act (11a). Maybe after getting it wired, it would seem easier, but thats tough to do since you have to climb all three pitches to try the first pitch again. Great route, though! Technical, devious, and very continuous.

I did this route yesterday (3/4/01) for the second time. I have always found this route difficult for the 10a rating. The first pitch is very crimpy and if your finger strength goes you are history. It is also very sequency and there is no place to get off your arms. One tip - if you are 6 ft or over, you can clip the first bolt before you commit to the wall. It is just barely possible.

I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though!

I've done this route probably 25 times, and it is my favorite 5.10- in Boulder. Im 6' tall and it feels like 5.10a to me. I first climbed Rosy in 1980 when there were no bolts--just some rusty old pins with ratty slings all over the place. The bolts have cleaned it up and made it much more enjoyable and safer. I think the very first move is as hard as any other move on the route, including the long step down in the middle of the traverse. I've always linked the first and second pitches in one. Rosy is definitely an Eldorado classic, and is, in my opinion, one of the best 5.10 routes anywhere--right up there with Figures and Solid Gold in Joshua Tree.

Young Doug - Ahhh Mr Escalar was the first to mention the step down..there is a little nubbin halfway across just at the lip you can stand on if you can find it! it eliminates the need for a long stem! Sorry...didn mean to spew beta, but if you read this you are looking for it!

I did this climb this morning and led P1 & P3. I am a short dude (5'7") and am primarily a crack climber. I don't know that I could give P1 a 10c, (no offense to those giving it that rating). Let's call it 10- (a/b). I would say that for a short pitch, however, you get your money's worth. This was a really nice and unique route. Additionally, the "s" rating is questionable - just pay attention to what you're doing and stay relaxed when you go to clip the first bolt.

Rosy's is 5.10. Maybe easy 10 if you're tall, or hard 10 if your short, but it's still 5.10. I think rather than get hung up in the subgrades (a,b,c,d) climbers should concerns themselves more with the gear, because that is where the real danger lies on this route. Although the bolts protect the leader on P1, he must place gear after the crux to protect the second (I found a #7 WC nut worked well, or small TCU) from a nasty sideways fall. The 5.9 pitches are a bit run out as well, and so I wouldn't recommend this route to anyone who doesn't feel solid onsighting 5.10 (-or+).

If pitches 1 & 2 are combined and led on double ropes with one rope being clipped only to pro on 2nd pitch, how is the protection for the second? Big swing

My friend is 5'9" and had no problem clipping the first bolt without committing to the wall, just stretch. 10a is about right. It may be crimpy, but all the crimps are big and positive, and your feet are huge if you stem correctly.

I led this route recently and agree with those who feel that it is pretty difficult for 10.a, even in Eldo. I combined the 1st two pitches on double ropes clipping the second rope only to gear on pitch 2. This provided more than adequate protection for the second. This is one of the best pitches I've ever done in Eldo but caution anyone who is at their limit on 10.

Definitely a great climb. Kind of intimidating with all the exposure but go for it! A purple (#0) TCU fits the horizontal finger crack after the crux perfectly and takes a little fear out of the last couple moves to the anchor. Also, might help to bring a long sling or two to back up the existing anchor after pitch one. Some of those slings are starting to look pretty ratty. You can descend down The Naked Edge with one rope if you use the first pitch anchors on T2, but watch for parties below. Send it!

I just did this route for the first time in 25 years, and I found myself wondering, "Why didn't I get back to this sooner?" It is a beautiful climb. The crux for the leader, though, is not the moves themselves, but hanging out to place gear to protect your second. If your limit is 10-, you will find this a worthy challenge--harder than most other climbs for the same grade. Best to do pitches 1 and 2 in one lead, so that you will not hit your belay partner if you fall off pitch 2. Use lots of long slings. And have fun! It doesn't get any better than this.

Just did this climb yesterday after doing the first three pitches of Ruper. Would have to say it was one of the best days I've had in Eldo! The crux on Rosy is short and well protected with two bolts at the start--or, maybe it is pulling the ropes after rapping off. Great climb and I would agree that the rating is about right. FYI: someone may want to throw up some rings or chains at the end of P1--the slings are starting to fray all over...

Jumped on this today for the first time...following each pitch. The start is nothing like I envisioned from reading the beta...you can't just reach up and clip the 1st bolt from the ledge if you are tall (I'm 5'11") before you make the (10a) move... you have to launch up to a near vertical stance, using a slopey left hand crimper and a high angling right hand crimper, then release the right hand, shift weight right and reach high for the clip, while relying on the tenuous left hand and a decent left foot placement to hold you in place. Very balancey... In other words, you have to do the (10a) move, unprotected, to reach the first clip. The consequence of a lead fall here, would not be pretty (probably a rescue, trip to the hospital, and broken bones). Following the start is no problem...

Following the first half of P1 isn't too bad either, but once you unclip that second bolt, it gets dicey. As George mentioned above, you can't get off your arms, their pumped, but there's no feet there, so you must step down to a nubbin, and work over and reach for a good corner horizontal seam. Make sure you leader protects the corner well. I felt the most exposure here...Very sequencey...got spanked...

P2 & P3 are exciting, classic pitches, of hard, near vertical (9) climbing that will challenge you every inch of the way. Doesn't get much better than this in Eldo...

On my lead of it, I did fall from my stance before clipping the first bolt due to my hand buttering off that incredibly slick, super chalked up and kind of calcified-smooth hold you are referring to. I crashed onto the ramp feet first, but because the ramp slopes so much I immediately tumbled onto my side, which I think may have saved me from an ankle/foot injury. Banged me up a little, but I got right back on and finished without incident. I may have just gotten lucky, but I didn't think the fall was that hard.

Yes, you were very lucky AC...count your blessings... I'm not saying every person who falls there is going to the hospital... but it looked dangerous enough that my partner & I took note. And it wouldn't be the distance you fell either (about 6') if you did peel reaching for the first clip, but the surface and angle of the ramp you'd hit (grooved, irregular, down sloping, and hard), that could potentially injure an ankle/hip/elbo. Accidents can happen anywhere...all I'm saying is this first clip has POTENTIAL for a bad day at Eldo...Just be warned before wandering all the way up there, if you aren't quite sure of your (10a) leading ability...There is a small wire placement in the lower left corner at the start to prevent tumbling down the ramp too far in the event of a fall, but it won't keep you from decking...relax, have fun, and be careful up there.

You can get some good ballnutz after the 2 bolts. A #4 is particularly helpful. A green alien is too big for this section. The crux is definitely the head games while you pump out fiddling with gear after the bolts, staring back at a big swing. I doubt it's technically harder than 10- if you find the good foothold down low before the stem after the second bolt.

There is a no hands rest right after the first bolt. A sideways kneebar with the right leg, left foot inside edged on good foot-hold, let go and contemplate the business. If this route were at Shelf it would be 11b.

[Did this route again today.. What a great route. However the webbing and rap anchor and the start of the first pitch have been removed. No more rapping if one [chickens] on the first moves. Also the webbing on the belay anchor at the end of the first pitch looks like someone has cut through most of it with a knife. I would not trust a belay on it or rappel. Sabitoge I tell you. If you find yourself in this situation clip in to the fixed stoppers. Also bring 1 or 2 extra metolius 0 TCUs. You can use them toback up the fixed anchors. If anyone knows why the webbing was removed for the start of this climb please let us know. Also, I heard rumors of bolts going in at the fixed anchor belay. Is there any truth in that?]

Charles, with all due respect, you're a psycho. I never really paid much attention to the comments here until I actually climbed it. Leaders, protect your second PLEASE. The bolts ain't enough... I was WAY freaked out to unclip the second bolt, but that's just because I'm a big pus after falling two weeks ago. Pump factor nine if you link P2 and 3 together. Also, if you have an extraordinarily long 60m rope, make SURE you find the center and rap the three pitches down to P1 slings. From here you can just BARELY make it to the cold-shut midway up the 5.0 ramp approach. You pass it on the way up attached to a piton. Your party would do well to simul-rap here because it stretches the rope a bit more, but make sure there are knots at the ends! Maybe a bit of swinging is necessary, but its BARELY possible. Puts you right at the gear you leave at the bottom of the ramp as well... VERY hard for a 5.10a and that's coming from two hard 10 leaders. It'll be awhile before I come back to this one. I'm heading off to Yellow...Cheers!~Wm

The climb is a great climb and is certainly one of the hardest 10a's around. From my point of view it is the '4-alarm fire of sandbags.' The climbing is unique, but I must admit, the character of this route has CERTAINLY been changed by the bolts. It is now more of a standard route, and less of something to aspire to. It is a good example of bad retro-bolting.

The anchor at the end of P1 was total crap, agreed. Some of the webbing was already cut 1/2 way through the single strands. Some people do belay there after getting flash pumped on P1 (me included 2/3 times I've done it) and others rap the route (using 2 ropes). Above all of that, the existing anchor was so packed in that you had to clip into the 2 Aluminum rap rings that were weighted across an edge (bad idea). For these reasons I moved/replaced/backed up the anchor today with fresh material that was a little longer, including all of the stuff above the central thread. I did not replace the thread due to the amazing amount of bird crap in the needle's eye, the 'reasonable' condition of the threads there, and the active swallows nest back in it.

In hindsight I apologize for the 'non-standard' appearance of the anchor I replaced and it's apparent complexity. This was due again to my lack of a knife. Upon examination, you will see that anchor is quite solid and the non-standard appearance of this was due to the effort made to make each anchor point both as isolated and redundant as possible using knots in the single (continuous) piece of webbing.

Not an hour after I replaced the bugger, someone came rapping though, commenting on the nice new anchor and what crap the old one would have been...

Someone should still take up a knife & cut some of the old crap out now that there is some nice fresh slings and links up there. Maybe next fall a nice fat pair of Kevlar cords could be put back into that thread and onto the new anchor.

When Erickson freed this in '70, he told me that he put a stopper/runner just above the now 1st pin and motored down and right into easier ground totally unprotected. He also showed me the rope burn scars on his shoulder, bicep, and forearm from a fall Steve Wood took on that last move in that upper corner of P2, as JE was hip belaying from that micro ledge...

In the early-middle 70s there were 3 fixed pieces on the traverse: (1) a doubtful blade that could be clipped just after you made the first moves off the ramp; (2) a terrible ring-angle, driven parallel to the rock surface along the long diagonal (down-to-right) crack, only its tip biting, with a ratty rope sling attached; and (3) a newer angle in a horizontal crack in the tiny corner that marks the end of the crux. You clipped (3) with a sigh of relief, because it was the first one that looked like it might hold a fall. (1) and (2) were the only protection for the exciting part of the pitch, though. A cover photo in Climbing (May-June 1975) shows the exact locations of this gear.So, logistically Rosy was like a sport route, in being mainly a clip-up (just a few nuts needed higher up); but the psychology was different.

Ernie and Larry, thanks for the additional historical perspective. By the time Rocky Heights was published, Rosy's reputation was far tamer than that. I don't know if there were different pins by that time, but I know that Rosy was often one of the first multi-pitch 5.10's that climbers would go after while progressing through the number grades (it was my 2nd 5.10). I guess climbers had more blind faith in those pins back then. Circa 1980, Rosy was certainly not a climb where you felt that a no-falls ascent was mandatory -- on any given weekend (given the sandbag rating in Rocky Heights) you would see climbers hanging on those pins. And as Larry mentioned, there was a pin you could clip after just stepping off the ramp -- similar to the first bolt now. I never heard of anyone getting hurt because of pins popping. So my argument was that the character of the route back then was not that much different than with the bolts now. But based on Ernie account of Erickson's FFA, the rigid ACE philosophy dictates the bolts *and* pins should have never been placed. If so, this route would be relegated to hardman obscurity.

I had more problems on the 2nd pitch than the first. I think it is really helpful to be tall for the moves before the first bolt and after the second. A #2 Camalot is useful on the 2nd pitch, right before the tricky lieback section at the top. A .3 Camalot or equivalent protects the slopey top out to the belay ledge.

I usually struggle on the last moves up the crack on P2. But last time I did it, I saw from above that there were good holds on the face to the right of the top of the crack. My second, Luke, followed that way quite easily, bypassing the last moves up the crack. So next time that's how I intend to do it.

I was scrambling around behind the big block below the first pitch of this route, and found a soiled pair of boxers and a cut sling. Being a good eldo citizen, I had the 'privilege' of packing this detritus out. Although messing one's shorts at the base of Rosy is a perfectly natural reaction, please be considerate of others and this amazing place...

Climbed this route again the other day, and finished with Alice In Bucketland - a full day and highly recommended! As I had remembered, the opening sequence on the first pitch, getting to and past the first bolt, is technically the most challenging. But you can't get anxious as you get closer to the wall, you have to look for and find all the holds... you can't miss anything on this pitch or you'll pay for it.

I agree with Guy's comment about the #2 (yellow) Camalot on p2. Rossiter's guide says take gear to a #2 Friend, which is much too small for that placement.I don't think the route warrants an "s" with the current two bolts on p1. I placed three Aliens (black, blue, green) and a great stopper on the traverse. I'm 5'8" and I could stretch to clip the first bolt before leaving the large foothold.We rapped from the tree up and left of the finish to the belay at the end of p1. Then another rap (2 60m ropes required) back to the ground.

There should be a wooden stick in the cave at the beginning of pitch 1. You can use it to stick-clip the first bolt - the beginning moves are a lot trickier than it seems.

Oh and make sure you're very clear on how you're going to descend.

No need for a stick to clip the first bolt. Look 5' to the left of the start and you'll see a bomber slot for a big stopper (#8 rock or so).

Am i the only one that wannts to scream "WTF"!!!! when I hear stick clip and this route mentioned in hte same breathe?

I remember when climbers used to climb...and I ain't that old

Incredible climb: cool moves, impeccable stone and the exposure rocks! I know this is probably really obvious, but it seemed important to me to build some sort of anchor on the ramp below the start of the first pitch. I found a nice v thread and there is also a good place to thread a stopper. If the leader blows the clip and falls, (s)he's going for the big ride and taking the belayer with them. Just something to keep in mind.

I think this pitch is 10c - my nemesis grade at Eldo. Definitely 10c if you combine the first and second pitches, which I recommend for the challenge and the great belay at the top of the second pitch. I think this pitch is considerably harder than other 10c Eldo pitches like Outer Space and Tagger. I also think it's harder than the last pitch of Superslab (10d).

A little more historical perspective--I was along on the FFA and have photos of Jim leading the traverse which I'll try to post soon. Unfortunately I ran out of film and don't have any shots of the upper pitches. It was definitely more exciting without the bolts!

It sounds like a bunch of whining. This route is a classic 10a. And it's an EASY 5.10!!

It isn't even close to the pump or technical level as Tagger, Outer Space or Super Slab. Protection is always good, especially since the placement of the bolts and a stick clip is not needed. Just suck it up for a couple of feet and clip the bolt. You guys have been sport climbing WAYYYYYYY too much. Don't bring the climbing down to your standards just get better.

Jack,
As for the grade, it sounds like this route must be your style. I've free soloed Tagger and I think this route is harder and I wouldn't try it. There's no good rest to hang out and recover.

However, I happen to agree with your apparent opinion that the bolts don't belong. The route has already been brought down a few standards by them. I don't sport climb much either...

Unless (R) stands for "RETROBOLTED" we can safely remove that designation from this climb.

Traverses scare me, Rosy was no exception.

The Vertigo rap anchors around the tree have been removed. I sat there confused, but after a few minutes, I turned around and saw the new rappel bolts.

Led this route yesterday with doubles, and it worked great. One rope for the traverse and the other rope for the vertical crack. No drag at all. C3s work well to protect the latter part of the traverse.

Rosy is a great climb with fun exposure! Link it up!

I finally led the first two pitches (as a single pitch) of Rosy today, and got them clean. I had been wanting to come back and lead these pitches since having followed both (as a single pitch) clean in June, 2006. The lead felt harder than the follow even though I have climbed, and improved, a good bit since 6/6. The initial moves before you clip the first bolt are 5.10a I've concluded since, when I followed them I could judge them objectively, and they felt like 5.10a. When I led them today they felt like 5.10d because, no matter what anyone says here, if you blow the first clip you are f*cked (and so is your belayer, BTW, unless you have built a bomb-proof anchor), and $hit feels harder when the consequences are dire if you blow it.

You can totally shake out and decompress at the first anchor (without dogging on the anchor, of course) before taking on the second pitch, which felt easier to me this time (compared to the first pitch it was a cinch).

Anyway, re: grading this route, the real, objective, crux is after the second bolt, on that long stem to the horizontal finger seam. If you factor sustained difficulty into your grading then this route is harder than 5.10a. This lead was bloody hard. This is all just my opinion--others may have a completely different experience.

Thanks to Larry H. I can tell you that I have '(2) the terrible ring-angle' at my home after it fell out in my hands in the early 80s.

There was discussion and controversy when the bolts went in c.1988. It was agreed at the time (at the famous Bolt Wars meeting) that freeze/thaw had undermined the pitons below a reasonable safety level, and that bolt replacement would be an acceptable remedy. The bolts there are safe, and if you don't like 'em, don't clip 'em !! Briggs agrees, if Bubb does not, but everyone should have their own perspective.

My opinion is if you want it bad enough, you can boot up w/ me and we'll link all 3 lengths into one pitch like a big dog (one-pitch 'Country Club', 3-pitch 'Naked Edge' other examples). Or, solo the thing, downclimb 'Ruper' and go do something hard. I've been there, AND done that more than once. Also, that this is a sweet, if short slice of Eldo heaven. Too bad this part of the wall isn't taller. But, check out 'Predator' and 'Wild Kingdom' when you're ready.... They share the same fabulous position.

In the prevailing designations of the day, there were 10minus, 10plus, and five ten for the range. This climb was usually considered in the 10minus range, but somewhat serious because of the tenuous gear.

I had Kor on-route freeclimbing in the late '80s, and he had more problem with the climbing difficulties than he had with the upgraded pro. I'll need to scan in some pix for any fans of the tall man.

The first pitch felt 5.10+, perhaps it was the traverse and exposure. I would hesitate to rate this 5.10a, I thought it felt 5.10c for sure. Agreed, a strong second is advised, otherwise a fall would result in one hell of a swing. In my opinion, it is just as difficult for the leader as it is for the second. I followed the second pitch, and, must say, was thoroughly worked. I thought leading the first pitch was scary and committing, this climb was good for the head.

We rappelled using 2 sixty meter ropes.

Followed entire route. Leader linked first two pitches and belayed from top of P2, putting long slings on pro near the first anchor. Felt comfortable to be belayed this way. As others have said, since I was fortunate enough to be able to focus just on the climbing and not on my nerves, P1 felt like 10a.

I don't think there's any move harder than 10a on the first pitch. Bring 2 blue Aliens and you can pretty much sew up P1. Exciting climb!

I have done the route yesterday, and currently the webbing at the first belay is not in great shape. It might need to be replaced soon.

There are also two fixed nuts on the traverse on the first pitch, both after the second bolt. They seem in good condition and we clipped them both.

Great route.

I think P2 is as-hard or harder than p1 on this climb. Dead vertical, it's hard to get a good rest stance, and the moves are technical. I failed at placing adequate gear and took a 25 footer (cam in flaring crack failed). Thank goodness I did not take out my belayer in the process. Be careful out there folks!