5.10b PG13,
Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 497
votes
FA: Layton Kor, Jack Turner, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Steve Wood, Ed Wright, 1970.
Colorado
> Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower Two
This is my favorite route in Eldo. It is not too long but is one of the most elegant lines possible. It begins with a long scramble up a ramp 5.0 (left of the Roof Routes), to some 5.2 soloing. It is hard to describe exactly how to get to the base of it, consult a guidebook.
Per
Carl Sampurna: a less-exposed alternative to the Lower Ramp is what Levin calls West Face of Lower Ramp, which starts below
Suparete at a large right-facing dihedral and continues up and right (blocky 5.0) to the top of the Lower Ramp.
The first pitch is a 50' horizontal traverse above a roof. The exposure consists of 150 feet of air straight to the ground, very exposed. The first half of the traverse is the crux, but the second half will still keep you pumped. Make the weaker climber in the party lead it as it is scarier to second it. The belay is semi-hanging off some fixed webbing (or wires) that can be backed up with nuts a little higher. If you haven't climbed in Eldo much, you might find the pitch a bit burly for the grade.
The second pitch is 60' long and goes up a steep and beautiful 9+ finger crack to a ledge with two bolts. The crux is about 3/4 of the way up.
The third pitch is .9- and about 110'. Start with delicate moves, go up to a bolt, then make a big stem to the right. Easier ground continues up the upper ramp, where you can belay off a large tree with [no] fixed gear.
Descent: with one rope, you can rap off Vertigo (up the ramp from the finish) or the Naked Edge (down the same ramp, including a 5.4 move). With 2 ropes, you can rappel the route and end up halfway down the approach ramp. You may have to leave gear on top to get down to the P1 anchor.
Three really short pitches. The first pitch has two bolts on it protecting the crux move, and the third pitch has a bolt at the crux You don't need much gear, bring a few TCUs, some stoppers and a couple cams around a #1 Camalot. A #3 Camalot is nice to have near the top of P2, but not necessary.
Boulder, CO
Grand Junction, CO
Portland, OR
Boulder, Colorado
Following the first half of P1 isn't too bad either, but once you unclip that second bolt, it gets dicey. As George mentioned above, you can't get off your arms, their pumped, but there's no feet there, so you must step down to a nubbin, and work over and reach for a good corner horizontal seam. Make sure you leader protects the corner well. I felt the most exposure here...Very sequencey...got spanked...
P2 & P3 are exciting, classic pitches, of hard, near vertical (9) climbing that will challenge you every inch of the way. Doesn't get much better than this in Eldo... Jul 31, 2003
Boulder, Colorado
Choctaw, OK
Around Boulder, CO
Boulder, Colorado
Fort Collins CO
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder, CO
Oh and make sure you're very clear on how you're going to descend. Sep 26, 2005
It isn't even close to the pump or technical level as Tagger, Outer Space or Super Slab. Protection is always good, especially since the placement of the bolts and a stick clip is not needed. Just suck it up for a couple of feet and clip the bolt. You guys have been sport climbing WAYYYYYYY too much. Don't bring the climbing down to your standards just get better. Jul 3, 2006
Around Boulder, CO
As for the grade, it sounds like this route must be your style. I think this route is way harder than Tagger or Grandmother's Challenge, the 2x 'yardstick' 10c's in the Canyon.
There's no good rest to hang out and recover.
However, I happen to agree with your apparent opinion that the bolts don't belong. The route has already been brought down a few standards by them. I don't sport climb much either...
Unless (R) stands for "RETROBOLTED" we can safely remove that designation from this climb. Jul 4, 2006
The Vertigo rap anchors around the tree have been removed. I sat there confused, but after a few minutes, I turned around and saw the new rappel bolts. Oct 1, 2006
Boulder, CO
Rosy is a great climb with fun exposure! Link it up! Aug 5, 2007
Centennial, CO
You can totally shake out and decompress at the first anchor (without dogging on the anchor, of course) before taking on the second pitch, which felt easier to me this time (compared to the first pitch it was a cinch).
Anyway, re: grading this route, the real, objective, crux is after the second bolt, on that long stem to the horizontal finger seam. If you factor sustained difficulty into your grading then this route is harder than 5.10a. This lead was bloody hard. This is all just my opinion--others may have a completely different experience. Sep 13, 2007
Colorado
We rappelled using 2 sixty meter ropes. Sep 27, 2008
Lander, WY
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
There are also two fixed nuts on the traverse on the first pitch, both after the second bolt. They seem in good condition and we clipped them both.
Great route. Jul 6, 2009
Bear Creek, CO
From the bolt anchors at the top of P2 the first person raps down almost to the slings at the end of P1. Look left and you will see a bolt with a single link (one of the bolts on Predator). Easily pendulum over to that bolt, clip a draw onto it and through the rope. Rap down a little more and you can easily "pull yourself" over to the 2nd bolt of Rosy, clip a draw into that and through the rope. This will position the first rappeler above the ramp right below the start of the climb. Scramble up the ramp and set up a "belay" (tie the ends of the rope into the "belay anchor").
The 2nd person now raps down, unclips the bolts (kind of reversing) the sequence, and the 1st person can "pull" the rappeler onto the ramp.
As always -- make sure the ends of the ropes are well knotted. Rappeling is dangerous, etc. Apr 19, 2010
I agree with 5.10c if you are 6 foot tall (my partner is).
If you are smaller like 5 foot 8 as I am, it is about 5.10d in my opinion.
Say, you know the moves from a prior ascent.
Only then you would feel a little closer to 5.10a.
But def not 5.10a for an onsight.
The first bolt is too far to the right and too high.
As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall.
I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them.
Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative.
A Stiffy or a 2 feet long wooden stick as a stick clip I would encourage to use.
Conveniently, there was a used up 2 feet long stick where the belayer sits.
We had no shame what so ever at using it! :)
I forgot if this was said or not, but I vaguely remember someone mentioning this possibility without having actually done it.
Here it goes:
As far as the rappel from the bolted anchor atop pitch 2, I confirm that two 70 m ropes, tied up together, reach the ground with the stretch without having to downclimb the slab. It brings you back to your pack safely!
My partner dragged the 2nd rope to the top of pitch 2.
But there is no need for that.
Secure the rope on the bolts.
Lower your partner to the ground from the bolts atop pitch 2.
The climber on the ground ties up the ropes together, the climber up on the wall hauls it up through the chain links and now has a two ropes rappel to the ground.
What a super classic this route is.
With creativity, safe route overall, well protected. Jun 17, 2010
Around Boulder, CO
As I said, I am 5 foot 8. I could not reach even less clip the first bolt without committing to a decking fall.
I can't imagine what it must be for smaller people that are barely 5 feet tall. It is unfair to them.
Clipping the first bolt was not cool but we were creative."
You may or may not understand the charter of the FHRC, but they/you/I can't just go plugging bolts in anywhere/everywhere, as it is not acceptable to the larger community to retrobolt routes. The guidance and charter of the A.C.E. FHRC is to replace and maintain existing anchors when necessary, add anchors under certain justifications, and review (and generally approve) new lines.
They can't just slap in a bolt lower for convienience. It wasn't put higher to be unfair, it was put higher because that is where a pin once was--- which is the only justification for having the bolt at all. You can read Larry Hamilton's recall of the FA a few comments above this one for a better history and understanding.
The first time I did Rosy Cruxifixtion (there WAS NO BOLT or pin, but you can get a stopper roughly where the pin was) was with Taimi Metzlers, who is 5'2" and managed to get up there. Since then I've followed Dianne Connelly. She is 5'3" and she did fine because she was ready for that sort of climb. Since then among the verious times I've done it, at least once was with Joseffa, who lead the first two as a single pitch without the bolts. She's 5'5".
I don't want to sound elitist, but one of the possible points of view then available is that that retrobolt should thus be removed and thus eliminate the fairness problem such that all people can get up there and place the stopper like we did for a decades... before someone got a permit to add a bolt under an erronious justification that a *good* pin had once been right there. Jun 17, 2010
I was by no mean suggesting to change bolt position nor add more bolts.
I was simply and generously posting a creative solution to safely climb a WELL DOCUMENTED decking situation on pitch 1 of this specific climb.
If only useful betas would be posted on those forums and comments, mp.com would be pleasant to visit. Jun 24, 2010
Boulder, CO
We used the Vertigo rappel anchors which worked pretty well: On the third pitch my partner ran it out to the tree on the upper ramp which is a stellar shady belay. We stayed roped up, but you can solo from here to the top of the ramp and look down the notch at the top and spot a two bolt anchor. Exposed scramble, or just stay roped up to get to the anchors, rappel west exactly 25 meters over a big overhang to another two bolt anchor that is hard to see from above. Over another big overhang to the ledge below rapping off the ends of our 50m rope we dropped 2 inches to the ledge. Change shoes, walk off to the north where it connects to the access trail. Aug 8, 2010
Grand Junction
Best not to push your second on this climb. Sep 17, 2010
Santa Cruz, CA
Denver, CO
I followed p2 and rather than doing the somewhat greasy layback to get through the crux. I found some delightful face climbing just to the left of the crack. Somewhat balancy, but all there for sure.
P3; Don't F2 on your belayer. 8, 8+ up to the first available pro. Pretty chill to the traverse bolt after that. Big move to a big jug with shiddy feet, slam in a (or 3 like me) small cam (0.4 c4ish) and finish it up.
Ascent/descent: 4th class it up past Suparete (stash your bags on this ledge) from the Redgarden trail rather than doing the ramp. Easy 5th class kinda down a chimney, and then up a column to get to the actual start once you get to the base of Ruper. Vertigo raps and down the trail to end up at your packs. Aug 10, 2011
Reno, NV
Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
I had thought that the current bolts were ACE approved retros, but I must admit, I searched the archives for info and could not find it.
The best data I have indicates that the bolts were not there in 1996 when I climbed it with Taimi and in early 1997 when I did it with Dianne but sprouted some time prior to spring of Y2K when I did the route with Joseffa Meir for the first time with the bolts there.
You do agree that those are nice new (< 15 years old) bolts, right? You will note Larry Hamilton's post here that there were no bolts on the route originally (his FFA with Erickson) and another who mentions no bolts in the '80s. Also, Rossiter's 1989 Boulder Climbs South fails to mention bolts on P1, but then again so does his Y2K book (written 1999?).
So, this raises a very interesting point, when exactly when did they go in and by what process? Dec 20, 2011
Silicon Valley/Boulder
I seem to remember Rob Candelaria being involved in the new route and the name was tentatively called 'Plastic Jesus', but in doing a bit of research, it appears that Plastic Jesus is a variation to the third, not first, pitch of Rosy and it was done by Roger Briggs and not Rob Candelaria. Hmmm.
Too bad about the bolts being added. Back in the day, you just went for it from the start to the horizontal crack. Of course, that was back when only Real(TM) men went climbing:-) Mar 20, 2012
Boulder
He also did a huge effort to upgrade belay anchors and replace 1/4" lead bolts that year (way before it was vogue). Mar 20, 2012
Okanogan, WA
Eugene, OR
PDX
Albuquerque, NM
The road
Broomfield, CO
Someone that has more experience than me should replace this anchor. There is also some solid rock to the right for a bolted anchor if the community wants to go that way. I think it would be a good idea and fit the nature of the route, given the bolted belay at the end of P2 and the protection bolts on P1 & P3.
Rad route overall! The crux 'crucifix' move is super fun and committing but surprisingly doable! Beautiful movement and exposure with great protection - not PG-13 at all. Get on it, you'll send!
Per the approach, solo to the end of the slab, downclimb into a narrow chimney, and then scramble over some blocks to the right. Make an anchor, and belay on a slopping ledge. May 14, 2019
Silicon Valley/Boulder
Third rock from Sun
Bishop, CA
Clipping the first bolt is reachy, as many commenters have mentioned before; my partner with a 6'3" reach could clip it w/ a stiffy - just something to keep in mind, since that is the crux section regardless of if you're short or not. There should be a wooden stick in the cave at the beginning of P1.
As Patrik mentioned, the route is not PG-13. The climb's reputation definitely preceded itself, and I was anticipating usual level Eldo scariness. It felt pretty safe. Jun 9, 2020
Boulder, CO
Gear: small pieces. RPs and ball nuts are key. Repeatedly used my 0.1s.
Suggestion: definitely combine P1 and P2. P3 isn't all that great. Bring a tagline or a second rope, and rappel from the anchors instead of dealing with topping out, rappelling off Vertigo, and hiking back. Regardless, if you top out or not, you should rack up at the car, so you don't have to hike back up to the Lower Ramp to grab your gear.
Opinion: this is more of face climbing than it is crack climbing. It's pumpy as hell. I only used a single finger jam, a tippy hand jam, and super tight fist jam on the first two pitches. Nov 21, 2020
Firestone, CO
Enjoy! Apr 25, 2021
Estes Park, CO
To commemorate the 40th anniversary of the first time I climbed Rosy, yesterday I climbed the route for somewhere around the 10th time, though it was my first time on the climb in at least 15 years. I've never been tall, but now I'm shorter, weaker and more chicken than ever. I've always felt the route was hard for the grade but never thought it was particularly scary or dangerous by Eldo standards, providing one can finesse clipping the bolt.
Tips for short people and making it safe for leader and follower in general:
At 5'6" with a negative ape-index, there is no way I can now clip the bolt without making hard and irreversible moves unless I use some sort of extender draw. If you have any doubt about making this clip, bring a stiffie. The starting moves, the crux if you're short, would be R-rated without this. If you can't clip the draw, there is a so-so yellow Z4 placement about 6' off the deck that offers some protection.
As for the starting moves themselves, they've always seemed hard. Around 20 years ago, after leading them, I thought "that's 11a". Yesterday, I was able to snag the key hold, only to find I couldn't move off of it. After retreating to the ledge, I tried traversing below the bolt and while it was, again, stiff climbing, it worked fine. I now consider traversing to be the short person's beta.
The second crux of the first pitch is protecting the follower after the second bolt, a stretch of about 7 feet of slightly downward climbing with no pro. Followers who blow this are liable to swing/fall over the roof whence getting back on the route becomes problematic. The risk of this happening can be reduced in two ways. First, the follower shouldn't unclip from the bolt until absolutely necessary -- when past the bolt and after having sized up the ensuing moves. Second, after the unprotected section, about 4 feet above the chalked holds, there is a shallow, hanging, left-facing corner that takes a decent #1 Camalot; this piece improves the follower's outlook on life and isn't hard to get to or place (but it could introduce drag so extend accordingly).
The next big issue is whether to link the first two pitches. Even though I've employed this technique in the past, I believe that if linking, due to swing and stretch, an unclipped 2nd rope (recommended by previous commenters) won't keep the follower from going over the roof if they fall at the wrong place. If there is doubt about the follower falling, a closer belay can be had at the end of the first pitch. However, as mentioned above, if you don't link the first two pitches, there is a legitimate concern about falling onto the belayer while leading the second pitch. With an attentive belay and placing gear at the obvious spots, this shouldn't be an issue except just below (pitch 2) the crux. Even at this spot, there is a decent 0.4 Camalot placement at the top of an A-frame flare and above that, either a sideways #2 Camalot placement which would probably hold a fall but mangle the cam in the process. You could avoid the #2 placement with a 2.5 or 3 Tricam either of which would be preferable to the Camalot (I didn't have either Tricam yesterday but recall placing a 2.5 previously). About 5' above the Tricam placement is the #3 Camalot placement which evokes a sigh of relief. Falling just below or while placing the #3 is definitely in the realm of possibility for a maxed-out leader; without the Tricam or a least the 0.4 placement, this fall would be too close for comfort as far as hitting the belayer. Since the second pitch trends slightly left up to this point, another thing one could do to prevent falling onto the belayer is to situate the belayer as far right as possible.
40 years on, these two pitches are still thrilling climbing.
Extra credit note addressing all the yammering about bolts. The start of Rosy was easier for short people when the pins were in place. There were more pins than there are bolts, and those at the start were easier to clip. Even though the pins were pretty suspect, in our youthful obliviousness, we trusted them. Jul 4, 2022
Colorado
I am super glad the bolts are there now. So many routes in Eldo never get climbed because someone did it 30 or 40 years ago and just went for it without placing a bolt. R and X rated routes are everywhere in Eldo. Some bolts here and there would make Eldo even more amazing. Rosy is a good example. Feb 5, 2023
Denver
Extra spray: a solid, vertical 0.3 that doesn’t need extension, right after the sequence from the 2nd bolt (probably in line with the nubbin (before it corners)) would protect the follower considerably. May 7, 2023
Denver, CO
10/10 for the exposure experience. Jan 1, 2024