Chad Silva > Comments

7 days ago Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall Dark Shadows (Full) 5.8 ● The upper pitches were great! If the bottom 4 are 4-star, the top 6 are 3-star. The bonus 1.5 rope leng… View Comment
7 days ago Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area > Yin & Yang Cliff Atman 5.10a ● There are bolts at the top again. View Comment
7 days ago Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > First Creek Slabs Lady Luck 5.7 ● This climb is 950ft of cruiser slab with spaced gear, 30ft of 5.5 G corner (p4) and 20ft of 5.6 G handcrack… View Comment
Oct 30, 2025 Yosemite NP > … 1 > B. El Capitan > 1. Base Routes > Southwest Base > Little John & La Cosita La Cosita, Left 5.7 ● I jammed a #5 at the start (very optional) and a #4 near the top (which I was glad to have!) View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Peterskill > b. Bunkbed Wall Gimme Three Steps 5.3 ● It is hard to imagine that a lead fall anywhere on this climb would not have you land on one of the many la… View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Sky Top Petie's Spare Rib 5.5 PG13 ● Great climbing, but the lead does see you start on an unprotected traverse right to the arete, and then mak… View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Sky Top Grey Face 5.5 ● An absolute joy. Links with a 60m rope. The crux is bouncing around the lower twin cracks - and perhaps tru… View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Peterskill > j. Scrotum Pole/Drive… The Hustler 5.6 ● The difficulty of the start has a lot to do with your body size. The more of you that fits into the crack,… View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Trapps > k. The Slime Wall Sticky Gate with Direct finish 5.7 ● From the top of Sticky Gate P1, the Direct pitch to the tree (not the true top of the cliff) was quite nice… View Comment
Aug 25, 2025 Gunks > Trapps > k. The Slime Wall Sticky Gate 5.5 PG13 ● I found the obvious gear on P1 at the start, then cut quite hard right for my next piece. It was then reaso… View Comment
May 29, 2025 Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &… Bold-Ville 5.8 ● The anchor at the end of P1 now has fresh cord, connecting a fixed hex, nut, and tricam. View Comment
May 29, 2025 Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall Twin Oaks 5.3 ● Echoing that P2 is a bit runout, with some tricky routefinding for a stretch near the ring piton. I did fin… View Comment
Apr 16, 2025 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > I. Glacier Poin… > 5. Monday Morning Slab Monday Morning Slab, Right Side 5.4 ● Ground to the good (upper left) bolts was a pleasant long pitch. We then headed up to the next massive obvi… View Comment
Apr 16, 2025 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > I. Glacier Poin… > 3. The Grack Area The Cow-Center Route 5.6 ● The second pitch is quite wildly runout. The opening slab is slick (but close to the anchor), then the long… View Comment
Jan 27, 2025 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress Myster Z 5.7 ● For P2 - this time, we did traverse out left after the slot. It seemed to follow the description better...… View Comment
Jan 27, 2025 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Windy Peak > S Face Jubilant Song 5.8 ● Great line! Approach took us two hours, and we only narrowly avoided getting our low clearance car stuck in… View Comment
Jan 27, 2025 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > White Rock Spring > Angel Food Area > Angel Food Wall Group Therapy 5.7 ● Came back for a second lap, with a few more years of experience to see how it measures up. This is how we p… View Comment
Jul 28, 2024 Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow 10,000 Restless Virgins 5.10d ● Fixed anchor replaced in July 2024. Added two cams and one nut, reused one new nut and the blue new-this-sp… View Comment
Apr 29, 2024 Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &… The Nose 5.6 ● I found the arete way harder than 5.6, and the tree is a terrifying time bomb. I didn't appreciate how conc… View Comment
Apr 22, 2024 Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &… Carbs and Caffeine 5.11a ● Re: Adam / Missing Anchor - That's really disappointing. I replaced the softgoods on it in November, an… View Comment
Apr 5, 2024 Gunks > Near Trapps > e. Harvest Moon to th… Across From the Fruitstand 5.4 ● GunksApps gives this a 5.3 R, and only describes P1. I agree - the top portion is runout, and if you lo… View Comment
Mar 16, 2024 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > White Rock Spring > Angel Food Area > Angel Food Wall Purblind Pillar 5.8 ● This was wildly good. It was even sweeter, having it to ourselves in the winter sun, while we watched a hal… View Comment
Mar 16, 2024 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Lotta Balls Wall Black Magic 5.8 ● I found the grade to be old school! Not outrageous, but certainly a 5.8 more in line with what I'd expect a… View Comment
Mar 16, 2024 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area > Winter Heat Wall Hole in the Pants 5.7+ ● I thought this was pretty trash. The opening moves are on awful rock... then it's a walkup slab. P2 is near… View Comment
Mar 16, 2024 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress Myster Z 5.7 ● I thought this was an enjoyable romp. P2 I never found the left traverse, and ended up following the right… View Comment
Mar 16, 2024 Southern Nevada > La Madre Area > Lake Mead Buttress Land Before Time 5.8+ ● Enjoyable romp on a wet rock day! The 5.8 pitches all had something to keep your attention, but the bolting… View Comment
Feb 26, 2024 Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left Easy Keyhole 5.3 ● Past the spire / near the top-out, there is an incredibly tempting mini-fridge sized boulder you'll want to… View Comment
Sep 11, 2023 Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Mariuolumne Dome > W Face Hobbit Book 5.7 ● I don't know if we messed up the approach - but there was a section shortly before reaching the start ledge… View Comment
Sep 11, 2023 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face Lurking Fear 5.7 C2 ● Did not finish - but still got a few cautionary tales to pass on... - We stashed our food at the top of P3… View Comment
Aug 22, 2023 Gunks > Millbrook > Westward Ha! (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) Trees at top of route ● Fixing a single 70m to the top tree also allows for a single strand rap to the necessary ledge - then use a… View Comment
Aug 8, 2023 Gunks > Trapps > i. High E Ursula 5.6 ● There are now bolted rap stations at the top of both pitches. This is an excellent addition from the preser… View Comment
Aug 8, 2023 Gunks > Near Trapps > d. Closure to Harvest… White Pillar 5.7 ● As far as "large" gear goes - I used a single #4, and two #3s. Might have been possible to place something… View Comment
Aug 8, 2023 Gunks > Near Trapps > e. Harvest Moon to th… Ground Control 5.9 ● I found the moves down low to be somewhat hard/reachy - then a brief respite of good gear for the traverse,… View Comment
Jul 25, 2023 Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei… Glyptodon 5.8 ● If you climb Simple Ceilings P1/2, you'll end up at the rap tree on the GT ledge right above this. If you a… View Comment
Jul 25, 2023 Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow Trigger Point 5.6 ● July 2023 - Replaced the anchor material with new softgoods, and added a carabiner to the nut that just had… View Comment
Jul 25, 2023 Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow Emilietta 5.4 PG13 ● Certainly an enjoyable line. Summer 2023, the rap station was a brand new looking, single piece of thic… View Comment

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Chad Silva > Comments

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