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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Renewal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,651 total · 81/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The nice vertical handcrack on the right side of the crag. A classic shorty.

Protection

2-3"
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10-
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10-
This is a surprisingly tight hand crack. Mostly #1 camalots (or 2.5 friends) for the first half, then widens dramatically from there. Mar 24, 2011
BD Camalots..Two #1, two or three #2 and an optional #3 to protect the mantel. Sep 23, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
I would say the #3 is mandatory, as if you blew the top out and the last piece was a #2, you'd more than likely hit the ground- the route is only 30' tall. Sep 23, 2013
After topping out...
James: dude, how was it?
Double D: I think I'm going to barf..
James: bhahahaha, I know the feeling!
Double D: baaarrfffff....!!! Apr 16, 2014
Chris M
Hailey, ID
 
Chris M   Hailey, ID
 
Blue Camelot (#3) is definitely not mandatory. I high Gold Camelot (#2) would keep you off the ground unless your belayer was updating his/her Facebook and wasn't paying attention. Nov 4, 2014
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Really fun little route. Tight hands to perfect hands to wide hands/perfect hands further back. #3 isn't necessary, although can be used for an anchor if you run out of #2s (which you will need two of at most). Mar 21, 2015
Can anyone tell me if this route has anchor bolts on top? Or how does one setup an anchor and lower and clean the gears afterwards? Oct 26, 2015
No bolts on top; A #3 and a #4 Camelot can be an anchor for lowering (you could probably use some smaller cams up there too). Very easy walk-off. Oct 27, 2015
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
 
Bradley Gorsline
Pasadena, California
 
Bradley Gorsline   Pasadena, California
 
There's also a secret bonus climb on this crack if you do it European style with no jams. It's a pretty fun layback, but definitely a fair bit harder than the standard climb, probably in the 5.11 range. Apr 17, 2017
Michael T Young
Seattle, WA
Michael T Young   Seattle, WA
#1s are thin hands for me but not ultra thin hands and this felt hard for 10a.

If you have large hands a third #1 might be welcome. The crack stays #1s farther than you might think. There's a low pod that could take a #2 but it's a bit finicky. Apr 25, 2017
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
A quite pumpy 30' of hands. Crux for me was the topout. Nov 7, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
I used two #1s, one #2 (bumped) and one #3 C4, Used two #4s to build a TR anchor Nov 19, 2017
Brett Bergeron
Brooklyn, NY
 
Brett Bergeron   Brooklyn, NY
 
I’m not that familiar with crack climbing and placed more protection than mentioned in the other comments.

Two red C4s low protect the first twelve feet well. Three gold C4s protect every body length past that to the end, where either a 2 or 3 will protect the very last move.

I found a #4 too large for the end unless placed very shallow or deep and nearly overcammed. Dec 20, 2017
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
just bring a crash pad... or two. JK
fun but short nice rest day activity Mar 2, 2018

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