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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Renewal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Roxanna Brock, 2000
Page Views: 2,307 total · 27/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

On the west side of the Yin & Yang cliff is an obvious splitter offwidth roof crack. It is a beastly climb that will have your attention from start to finish. Tape up. The crux is the first 20 feet fist stacking and foot camming through the roof.

Protection

#4, #5, #6 Camalots x2

Photos

Nice, dude. Someone actually did this thing! Respect. Gave it a halfhearted go in shorts once, didn't last long. Might have to get up there and give er another try! Oct 31, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11+
I'll post photos soon. Wear jeans and a long sleeve or give blood. This is a pretty burly route and keeps your attention at the top because it's quite crumbly. Definitely worth it though Oct 31, 2011
Yeah, the attempt I made was with one 5" cam and a pair of shorts, I walked away when my knee started to give up blood. Look forward to the pics-been so long since I looked at this one, I'd almost forgotten it was there! Nov 2, 2011
Done by a bunch of top ropers from WI! Seek and destroy sport wankers Andy! Nov 2, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11+
After thinking about the grade of this one for a while, I don't really think 5.11+ is accurate. I think 5.11 is good. Aug 21, 2012
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
I think you gotta send before you can downgrade my friend! Nov 30, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Not if I'm downgrading from the comfort of my couch! Dec 1, 2012

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