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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Renewal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
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Elevation: 4,214 ft
GPS: 36.168, -115.427 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,011 total · 164/month
Shared By: AJ on Mar 30, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This miniature (35') crag has two nice cracks. The routes get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

Follow a trail around the left side of Kraft Mtn. After 20 minutes you will reach a distinct notch; the crag is 100 yards further on the right.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Yin and Yang Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Bigwank
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 262
Atman
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 209
Yin and Yang
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Shortwank
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bigwank
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Atman
 262
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Yin and Yang
 209
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Shortwank
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Yin and Yang Cliff »

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10b4me  
Although the two climbs here are good, they're not really worth the hike, especially if you've ever climbed in IC. Mar 31, 2004
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Not really sure why you'd say that...it's a 15 minute, easy hike...... Apr 28, 2005
beny  
Some more info: as of Jan 07, almost all of the routes at this formation have anchors. The only exceptions would be the two wide cracks on the west side (.9, .11). Also, theres a sport route just right of Atman that checks in about .11-. Beware, the bolts are glue-ins and it looks like someomes first attempt with them. Jan 28, 2007
Was up at Yin Yang today... I don't know who put in the glue-ins but they look a little sketchy. There are globs of phlem yellow glue hanging out of the bolt holes. There is no doubt in my mind that this was someone's first attempt at glue-ins. Too bad they had to experiment at such a nice little area.

I'd suggest backing up these bolts for awhile until we see whether the installer knew what he was doing or not...

Jason Feb 18, 2007
This cliff has recieved an unneccessary "makeover" recently. I counted fourteen bolts on this cliff a couple of months ago, and this is before the lead bolts went in on the "sport routes". These were existing, already established toprope routes with solid, accessible gear anchors. The idea was that anyone climbing at this cliff had gear with them, as this is a traditional, bolt-free trad cliff. Someone decided to change that, I'm sure in some kind of public service oriented spirit, but seeing a botched, sticking 2/3 out glue in three inches from the crack I've plugged cams into for two years, on a 30' cliff with a one minute walkoff, just sickens me. It's not progress, the word from the rangers is that it's totally illegal to bolt on that cliff, and my feeling on it is that the sooner those things make their way to join disco in the dustbin of history, the better. If you chop these botched bolts, let me know and I'll buy the beers at Tenaya Creek to celebrate. If I had the gear to do it correctly myself, they'd already be gone. Hatemail and/or support to Killischoward@hotmail.com. Mar 7, 2007
The bolts have been removed. See the anonymous letter submitted by Todd.

Jason Mar 8, 2007
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
Thanks for chopping them and cleaning them up! I did Ying and Yang saturday and we didn't see evidence leftover... Good work! Apr 22, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The best parking area to get to Yin and Yang cliff is the one at the very end of Sandstone Drive, and from there, it really is a 15 minute hike. Mar 24, 2011
Thanks to LVCLC volunteers, the old chop job at this cliff no longer has grey glue evidence. The glue was removed in an attempt to camouflage the old illegal bolt holes. The holes were then filled and red sand/rock placed on top. It looks a lot better than it did. Thanks for the donated time gentlemen! Oct 17, 2013
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
Although the routes are short and there is a bit of a hike to reach this crag, the routes are very high quality and allow easy top-roping, mock leading, and leading from 5.7 to 5.11, thin cracks to chimney. IMO, the hike is a nice warmup & scenic, and it keeps this crag very quiet. It is a great place to practice while getting away from the crowds. An approach scramble up and over Kraft Mountain makes it even more fun. Jan 31, 2016
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Think I may have left my #4 camalot last tuesday. If anyone has found it, please pm me. I can tell you how it was marked Feb 4, 2018

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