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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown 1980's
Page Views: 1,589 total, 10/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 27, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the obvious chimney just to the left of Atman.A perfect splitter knee and back chimney. A fun little route to tick off when you're done doing(or waiting for!) the classic's to the left and right!

Protection

There is no gear! A solo or a TR.

Photos

David Bruneau
St. John
  5.7 PG13
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.7 PG13
Climbing near the outside is the good practice for chimney technique, where there aren't as many features. It is very easy to control your descent down this chimney by just pushing on the sides - I don't really see how you could manage to free fall to the bottom unless you suddenly went unconscious. Jul 8, 2016
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.5
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.5
A #1 BD C4 protects this climb fine and it is a great introduction to leading chimneys for the novice chimney leader.

It is only 5.8 X if you climb straight up from the outside and ignore the rest of the chimney.

If you climb the chimney as you would any chimney on a trad climb, you can make it ~5.5 PG. Just walk inside about 10-15' to where a gigantic piece of the formation has fractured and tipped over, sealing the back of the chimney. This part is about cl. 4-5 chimneying on great washboard foot holds if you go right-side in. Place the bomber red cam in the leaning block and then stem & change sides to left-side in as you tunnel in to an even deeper slot formed by the backside of the leaning block. There is no pro in here, but there is nowhere to fall. It is now about 5.5 chimneying ('froggy' technique) to a chill topout on the formation (stay left, away from the wider chimney, for security).



Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Bigwank.

Be careful that the rope drags over a death block near the top. It is safe enough if the belayer stays far out to keep the rope angle better to avoid dragging over the rock. For the follower, the rope can be flipped into the second chimney, or at least if they climb deeper inside, exposure is limited. Jan 31, 2016
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
.... And we haven't heard back from climbing this X-route. uhoh. Nov 11, 2014
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Probably some gear way back in the chimney--gonna check it out. Aug 27, 2014