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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,758 total, 119/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The left wall has this curvy thin hands crack. Take some thin gear for the last moves. Like its neighbor, a sweet miniature route.

Protection

to 2"
Chris M
Seattle, WA
 
Chris M   Seattle, WA
 
Small (.4 camelot to micro) gear for top anchor works well in the block above and climbers left of the topout. Bolts have been chopped Nov 4, 2014
Nitish Nag  
 
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11a
BETA ALERT

Gear used:

0.4, 0.75, two #1s ( I walked both), 0.5 and 1 nut at top ( 0.4 or smaller cam would work also) Nov 19, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Fantastic route. Rather pumpy for a short climb. I used 3 red Camalots and felt comfortable. I have big hands and the crux for me was hanging on an overhanging ring-lock at the upcurve where there are poor feet. Save a 0.4 BD or similar for a pod to protect the final moves in the thin crack. May 19, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c/d
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c/d
Anyone who calls Atman harder than Yin and Yang has betrayed their status as a sport climber.
Super fun route. Felt easier (although "sportier") than Risk Brothers. 10c/d seems fair. Mar 21, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
Slightly harder than Rubicon and Heart of Darkness. Pumpier. More fun than Indian Creek, if in a less pretty setting. Apr 4, 2013
BrianWS
  5.10+
BrianWS  
  5.10+
Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet! Mar 17, 2013
GDavis
  5.10d
GDavis  
  5.10d
Rubicon, O'Kellys, Papaya Crack, Heart of Darkness, clean and jerk, bearded cabbage... maybe I've been climbing at Josh too much. 10D is soft :) Feb 19, 2013
matt carpenter
Las Vegas
5.10c
matt carpenter   Las Vegas
5.10c
Pumpy... yes. 5.11... no. Thought this was easier than Rubicon (in Jtree) and that is rated 10c. Feb 28, 2012
For perspective, it's more common to see flashes of Y+Y than Atman, from the dozen times I've been at the cliff. Atman goes from .75 to upper #3s, and usually somewhere in there people will find a size that is pretty tough for them.

For experienced crack climbers, neither is a tough send, Atman is burlier, you get in up to the shoulder, Y+Y feels more exposed and face-y, so strong sport climbers tend to have little trouble, less jams also.

It's a great climb, get at it+worry about the grade later if ya got that kinda time.. Oct 31, 2011
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
I'd say 10d is fair for small hands... this thing is great! Wish it was longer. Feb 26, 2010
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.11b
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.11b
It's soooo good! I can totally see 10D if you have small hands the crescent would go easier. I don't have small hands. LOL One way or another, it's got sick climbing from the ground till the top-out! Apr 22, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Allow me to add my voice to the grade-discrepancy racket: I know grades can be flexible, but 5.10d sounds like a sandbag to me. To be sure, the line doesn't stretch for a full rope-length, but I thought it packed a punch despite its short stature. Nov 6, 2007
alpinglow
city, state
alpinglow   city, state
Waaaaaaaay out of character to call this 10d...especially in Red Rocks. I was told it was 11c and didn't argue after I had climbed it?

So call it 5.11 and have a great time on it, fun route! Mar 4, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
i'm not entirely sure why this route is listed as .10d in the guide- its an .11a at least.

sure, its short, but an .11 move is still an .11 move! Aug 20, 2006