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Routes in Yin and Yang Cliff

Atman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barely Nut-in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bigwank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boxing Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Budda's Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miniwanka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortwank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yin and Yang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoroaster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,655 total, 27/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Dec 1, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Bigwank is a short but fun offwidth crack. Very approachable for the grade.

Location

Right of the tips corner Shortwank

Protection

#4, #5, #6 to sew it up

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
Extra fun if you start from down in the hole. It is just a tad too wide to chimney well there, and is easier to do a mild sidewinder technique for a foot or two until you can start chimneying better.

If you want to lead from the hole and protect yourself from a fall without pre-placing a #6 from the starting block, a Valley Giant #9 is recommended. The rest of the rack is spot on for sewing up a lead. It is very easy to push cams as you go.

My only complaint on this climb is that it is so short, but it is full value from bottom to top, and a VERY good climb.

Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Zoroaster. Jan 31, 2016
It's short and very fun. If you're a little nervous with OW this can be easily top roped by building an anchor. I recall a #3 and #4 work well. Otherwise lead it! Sep 23, 2013