Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Atman

5.10a, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 589 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area > Yin & Yang Cliff
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

The nice vertical handcrack on the right side of the crag. A classic shorty.

Protection

1-3". Currently, a gear anchor is required.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Timmy Carlson cruising through the sexy hands section on Atman. Photo credit: Colton Nunley
[Hide Photo] Timmy Carlson cruising through the sexy hands section on Atman. Photo credit: Colton Nunley
Fists section,
[Hide Photo] Fists section,
"Atman" --  Photo by Tim Martel.
[Hide Photo] "Atman" -- Photo by Tim Martel.
Me on "Atman"<br>
Chad Kuhlman photo
[Hide Photo] Me on "Atman" Chad Kuhlman photo
onsight soloing Atman
<br>

<br>
photo by Nancy
[Hide Photo] onsight soloing Atman photo by Nancy
Another view of Atman.
[Hide Photo] Another view of Atman.
Atman Crack (5.10). Short, but, SWEET!
[Hide Photo] Atman Crack (5.10). Short, but, SWEET!
getting ready for the wide section
[Hide Photo] getting ready for the wide section
Lucas Arredondo finds perfect hands on Atman. March 2022
[Hide Photo] Lucas Arredondo finds perfect hands on Atman. March 2022
Brad on the last moves of Atman.
[Hide Photo] Brad on the last moves of Atman.
Peter G during his onsight of Atman.
[Hide Photo] Peter G during his onsight of Atman.
Myself enjoying the locker jams on Atman. Photo by Rob Hellams
[Hide Photo] Myself enjoying the locker jams on Atman. Photo by Rob Hellams

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] This is a surprisingly tight hand crack. Mostly #1 camalots (or 2.5 friends) for the first half, then widens dramatically from there. Mar 24, 2011
[Hide Comment] BD Camalots..Two #1, two or three #2 and an optional #3 to protect the mantel. Sep 23, 2013
[Hide Comment] After topping out...
James: dude, how was it?
Double D: I think I'm going to barf..
James: bhahahaha, I know the feeling!
Double D: baaarrfffff....!!! Apr 16, 2014
Chris M
Hailey, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Blue Camelot (#3) is definitely not mandatory. I high Gold Camelot (#2) would keep you off the ground unless your belayer was updating his/her Facebook and wasn't paying attention. Nov 4, 2014
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Really fun little route. Tight hands to perfect hands to wide hands/perfect hands further back. #3 isn't necessary, although can be used for an anchor if you run out of #2s (which you will need two of at most). Mar 21, 2015
[Hide Comment] Can anyone tell me if this route has anchor bolts on top? Or how does one setup an anchor and lower and clean the gears afterwards? Oct 26, 2015
Mike Bond
Kentucky
[Hide Comment] No bolts on top; A #3 and a #4 Camelot can be an anchor for lowering (you could probably use some smaller cams up there too). Very easy walk-off. Oct 27, 2015
Bradley Paul-Gorsline
Bristol, WI
 
[Hide Comment] There's also a secret bonus climb on this crack if you do it European style with no jams. It's a pretty fun layback, but definitely a fair bit harder than the standard climb, probably in the 5.11 range. Apr 17, 2017
Michael T Young
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] #1s are thin hands for me but not ultra thin hands and this felt hard for 10a.

If you have large hands a third #1 might be welcome. The crack stays #1s farther than you might think. There's a low pod that could take a #2 but it's a bit finicky. Apr 25, 2017
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A quite pumpy 30' of hands. Crux for me was the topout. Nov 7, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I used two #1s, one #2 (bumped) and one #3 C4, Used two #4s to build a TR anchor Nov 19, 2017
Aaron covington
San Diego, ca
 
[Hide Comment] just bring a crash pad... or two. JK
fun but short nice rest day activity Mar 2, 2018
Daniel Q
Toronto, ON
 
[Hide Comment] Gets wider and significantly easier after the first half. Used one #1, two #2, and a #3. Placed a #5 as an anchor and hip belayed about 10ft back.
Easy walk off. Oct 13, 2019
Todd F
 
Chase Morgan
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Not sure what everyone is talking about. Upper part is significantly harder than the lower part, as the angle increases and more and more weight is on your hands. Its only #1s for like 3 or 4 moves. Dec 1, 2020
Liz Lampson
Sunnyvale, CA
[Hide Comment] It's possible the crack has widened somewhat since gear beta was first written, but this felt like more #2s than anything else. I, a very timid leader, sent it with only one #1 (placed from the start ledge), 2 #2s (one of which I bumped and the other which I back cleaned and placed higher) and 2 #3s (placed about 18 inches apart because topouts on jugs are scarier than crack climbing). Mar 26, 2021
Ryan Wood
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] This is a perfect example of sizing defining the grade. For someone where red camalots are locker hands and the top widens to fists, I can see the 10- grade. This climb feels harder for me than any 5.10 in Yosemite, as my hands are perfect blue camalots. I’ve started lapping this on self-belay to kill myself on thin hands. Does it ever get easier? LOL

To drive the point home, the bottom sequence is perfect fingers for me for a few moves. Gotta love crack grading. Quite humbling when it’s a bad size for you... Mar 31, 2021
slim

  5.10a
[Hide Comment] i thought this one was similar in difficulty to little john left. Apr 1, 2021
[Hide Comment] fun, short, and burly, used 2x#1, 1x#2 and #3, any combination from #1-#5 will work for an anchor, but bring long cord to extend if TRing. Nov 30, 2021
Jake Messner
NorCal
[Hide Comment] slim, you must have small hands because I easily sent little John left but couldn't get through the first few moves of this climb. Jan 7, 2022
Patrick Henry
Costa Mesa, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Beta for big hands at the beginning:

Reach as high as you can, jump feet up to the first pocket/ imperfection in the crack. Then you can reach up to the wider section quickly.

youtube.com/shorts/yE7-q_aI… Jul 18, 2022
James Cranston
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] red red gold gold blue! Sep 27, 2022
Jack Kelly
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Typical onsight attempt: youtu.be/zUT-58hx2TE Dec 2, 2022
Chris S
Orange County, CA
 
[Hide Comment] As somebody just breaking into leading 10s on gear, I carried triples of #1 and #2 plus a single #3 and single #4 and that felt like the perfect rack. I was stitching it up because this was very tough for me since the first half at least is pretty small hands for me so for the more experienced folks, you won't need that many pieces. A #4 isn't necessary but it's nice to have as you get to the final 4-5 ft.

Beautiful climb, worth the hike to get to it and some seriously cool photo opps if you have a third person around. Apr 13, 2023
Harris Kashtan
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I have larger hands so this crack which is mostly 1s for the first half really felt like thin hands with challenging feet. Felt more like 10c to me and would agree with previous comments that the grade if very hand-size dependent. Easily built a gear anchor up top. Apr 18, 2023
[Hide Comment] Climbed today and bolts on the top. Sep 22, 2023
Ryan DeLena
Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] As of December 27, 2023, there is no fixed anchors on Atman, or Yin and Yang Crack. I was able to build an anchor with two #3s, bring 3 if you like more redundancy. Dec 29, 2023