Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Sam Slater & Mike Freeman - 1982
Page Views: 12,550 total · 78/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


10,000 Restless Virgins is representative of many Gunks climbs as it has a wonderful name (anyone know the story behind it?) and, of course, a challenging roof.

It is located at the far right end of the Trapps, and the start is actually concealed by a massive boulder (Dick's Prick pinnacle) that sits at the base of the cliff. One must scramble down into a pit formed by the boulder and the main wall.

Climb up a crack system and left-facing corner until you are situated beneath the roof. From here pull the roof (crux) up and left, and continue heading up and slightly left to a fixed anchor just over the roof.

This is a great, well-protected climb that is certainly worth the effort to approach. While you're at this end of the Trapps consider climbing Wegetables I've Never Seen Before and Simple Suff -- two other nice climbs in this general area.


Standard Rack.
Leo Hski  
The origin of the name? Per Sam Slater: "after leading this route you'll be as tired as if you had spent the night with ...." Nov 28, 2006

And, note that Dick's Prick pinnacle is just about touching 10,000 Restless Virgins. Oct 13, 2010
how can this route's amazingness be properly quantified?

the climbing is difficult, continuous, aesthetic, and varied. it is well protected. the location is unique and pretty, and the route is rarely crowded.

how lucky were those guys to show up in the 80s and find this thing unclimbed. Sep 6, 2011
My first 10d (following) in the Gunks. Moves thru the roof easier than expected (with excellent coaching by my partner). The moves felt to me like an "indoor" sequence. The problems were to get over the intimidation, see how to start the sequence, and (for the leader) to protect it well.

At 169.5cm / 5ft7in roughly normal reach, I could grab the key bucket fully static, no deadpoint needed. I'd guess it would be much harder for someone less than 168cm / 5ft6in.

My partner leading found it less strenuous just below the roof to first quickly get in a couple of pieces, then hang from those while improving and extending (to a 3-point equalized config). Just above the roof I seem to remember a couple of pretty small cams.

Afterward TR ...
From the top anchor it's possible to do some (otherwise unprotectable) entertaining wide-chimney / stemming on top-rope -- between the main wall and the inside face of the pinnacle -- bring your camera (only place I know for this in the Gunks). Then for those with long legs, can move from the stemming onto the inside wall and try to climb a thin crack (much harder than Restless Virgins). May 15, 2013
This route is really superb. The moves are sustained and aesthetic throughout, and it's really not that hard. Anybody who does a little gym climbing should find the crux surprisingly mellow--the holds are all huge. It's certainly technically easier than nearby Tennish and unlike that route the gear is G. My only regret is depriving myself of the true onsight by looking at the photos on this site. Lesson learned. May 21, 2013
I dunno, I found this to be tough. The moves and holds are there but it's real work getting established over that roof. Jun 16, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
Gear Beta:

Bring a blue camalot to place under the roof before the long reach. There are spots for other gear, but the rock quality is poor. Oct 26, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Can anyone speak to the integrity of the flake before the roof on this? more specifically the jug below the roof that tops the flake and the following 3-4 feet below it. It's pretty cracked and spooky. Dec 16, 2015
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
If you want to know more, read this. Actually, there's pretty much no beta in this, but you should probably read it.

pacmountaineering.wordpress… Jan 15, 2016