Avg: 3.7 from 92 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Sam Slater & Mike Freeman - 1982|
|Page Views:||14,601 total · 77/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
It is located at the far right end of the Trapps, and the start is actually concealed by a massive boulder (Dick's Prick pinnacle) that sits at the base of the cliff. One must scramble down into a pit formed by the boulder and the main wall.
Climb up a crack system and left-facing corner until you are situated beneath the roof. From here pull the roof (crux) up and left, and continue heading up and slightly left to a fixed anchor just over the roof.
This is a great, well-protected climb that is certainly worth the effort to approach. While you're at this end of the Trapps consider climbing Wegetables I've Never Seen Before and Simple Suff -- two other nice climbs in this general area.