The Slime Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.749, -74.175 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||JSH on Mar 7, 2011|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.
Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the Slime Wall / WASP approach trail. The next trail is [[Almost Pure and Simple]]112043556. , which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.
Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Slime Wall
Days w Precip