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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Elevation: 1,144 ft
GPS: 41.749, -74.175 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,899 total · 299/month
Shared By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011
Admins: JSH
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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details

Along the Cliff

Description

Major Features: The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.

This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.

Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the
Slime Wall / WASP approach trail. The next trail is [[Almost Pure and Simple]]112043556. , which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.

Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Slime Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 20
Sundance
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Sticky Gate with Direct finish
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Wasp
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 106
Simple Suff
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Falled on Account of Strain
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Last Frontier
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Frustration Syndrome
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 15
Golden Showers
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
The Stand
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
April Showers
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Comedy In Three Acts
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Climb and Punishment
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Kligfield's Follies
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Techno-Suff
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sundance
 20
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sticky Gate with Direct finish
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Wasp
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Simple Suff
 106
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Falled on Account of Strain
 76
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Last Frontier
 42
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Frustration Syndrome
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Golden Showers
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
The Stand
 37
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
April Showers
 18
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Comedy In Three Acts
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Climb and Punishment
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Kligfield's Follies
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Techno-Suff
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
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