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Routes in First Creek Slabs
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Bad Moon Arising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Big Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Comeback Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Falling Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hot Flash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lady Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Musical Odyssey T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rising Moons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Romanian Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Romanian Rib - Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smiley Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smooth Sailing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunset Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunset Slab Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Monica Miller, Catherine Conner, Jodie Bostrom, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 28,023 total · 136/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Apr 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I try to resist giving out too many stars, but this route deserves them. Good line. One thousand feet of easy climbing on perfect sandstone. An occasional minor crux thrown in to keep it interesting. This could be the best route on the First Creek Slabs.
The first three pitches ascend excellent slabs to good belays on comfortable ledges. On the third pitch go up and left (where Big Sky moves right to the next rib) and set up a belay beneath a beautifully varnished left-facing corner. Pitch 4 goes straight up the corner and exits right to a small belay perch even with the big overhangs. Pitch 5 does not continue up the crack, but instead makes a few improbable, but easy, steps left to gain a finger crack directly above the overhang. Continue up the rib, locating belays when suitable anchor options are available. The route finishes up the clean hand crack in a small, right-facing dihedral. (This is the same finish as Sunset Slab, which has joined this route from the left.)
Although the climbing on this route is rarely more difficult than 5.2, it still maintains a good level of interest. Protection options on the slab are limited, routefinding is important, and belay sites must be chosen with care. Beyond that, the route is fairly long for a beginning climber, and retreat would require leaving gear.
The first three pitches ascend excellent slabs to good belays on comfortable ledges. On the third pitch go up and left (where Big Sky moves right to the next rib) and set up a belay beneath a beautifully varnished left-facing corner. Pitch 4 goes straight up the corner and exits right to a small belay perch even with the big overhangs. Pitch 5 does not continue up the crack, but instead makes a few improbable, but easy, steps left to gain a finger crack directly above the overhang. Continue up the rib, locating belays when suitable anchor options are available. The route finishes up the clean hand crack in a small, right-facing dihedral. (This is the same finish as Sunset Slab, which has joined this route from the left.)
Although the climbing on this route is rarely more difficult than 5.2, it still maintains a good level of interest. Protection options on the slab are limited, routefinding is important, and belay sites must be chosen with care. Beyond that, the route is fairly long for a beginning climber, and retreat would require leaving gear.
![(Route Photo) WHY is this man smiling? As the wise, old climber he is: he's managed to belay, not lead, the crux pitch. (Note the all-nut trad belay.) [FA-er Larry DiAngelo on later ascent at the MtnPrjct Administrators get-together in Red Rocks]](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/112837431_smallMed_1494317870.jpg?cache=1702072405)
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