Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Monica Miller, Catherine Conner, Jodie Bostrom, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 21,565 total · 144/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 1, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

I try to resist giving out too many stars, but this route deserves them. Good line. One thousand feet of easy climbing on perfect sandstone. An occasional minor crux thrown in to keep it interesting. This could be the best route on the First Creek Slabs.

The first three pitches ascend excellent slabs to good belays on comfortable ledges. On the third pitch go up and left (where Big Sky moves right to the next rib) and set up a belay beneath a beautifully varnished left-facing corner. Pitch 4 goes straight up the corner and exits right to a small belay perch even with the big overhangs. Pitch 5 does not continue up the crack, but instead makes a few improbable, but easy, steps left to gain a finger crack directly above the overhang. Continue up the rib, locating belays when suitable anchor options are available. The route finishes up the clean hand crack in a small, right-facing dihedral. (This is the same finish as Sunset Slab, which has joined this route from the left.)

Although the climbing on this route is rarely more difficult than 5.2, it still maintains a good level of interest. Protection options on the slab are limited, routefinding is important, and belay sites must be chosen with care. Beyond that, the route is fairly long for a beginning climber, and retreat would require leaving gear.

Location

Hike in the First Creek trail and climb to the top of the hillside beneath Rising Moons. Scramble and bushwhack right (west) along the base of the cliff. Continue about 60 feet beyond the jutting overhang of Big Sky.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe some extras on the small stuff

Photos