Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,254 total · 84/month
Shared By: Wes B. on Jan 23, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Location

The last rib on the right side of the First Creek Slabs. If you hit the Echove you've gone too far.

Protection

standard rack

Description

This is a long moderate route with relatively good rock that protects well.

P1 - start up a dark varnished right facing corner with huge holds and good protection (150')

P2 - step up and onto lighter colored rock with little "nubbins" that will flake off with weigh. work your way up and left to the face of the rib (150')

P3 - follow a nice crack to the base of the wave (175')

P4 - follow the crack up and thru the brown wave and follow a good crack another 125' to a ledge with an ancient piton (175')

P5 - follow the face for an easy pitch, belay on top of the rib (175')

P6 - step down and follow a vegetated crack for about 100' and then head up left at a large tree, belay 30' to the left of the tree (130')

P7 & P8 - follow cracks up the center of the face trending left for two pitches to a ledge were you can access the stand first creek rappel (300')

Photos

Why does this say 5.5 on here but harder in the book? Nov 17, 2017
J W
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
The one in the book refers to the Left Side route on this site that Larry and Karsten put up. Nov 18, 2017
pooch
  5.5
pooch  
  5.5
This route deserves more traffic, climbing thru the p4 wave is awesome as are the pitches before & after it. Plentiful gear when you need it, nothing harder than 5.5 Feb 27, 2018
D. M. Cole
Northern Utah
 
D. M. Cole   Northern Utah
 
An easy but varied climb that includes pitches with hand jamming, face climbing, "lotta balls," and chocolate varnish. If it were not for the 90+ minute approach and the relatively technical descent, this 5.5 would be a must-climb for the budding multipitch trad leader.

A few considerations:

The route receives limited direct sun, so it is perfect for a warmer day.

On Pitch 6, as to not disturb the vegetation or snag the rope, we face-climbed left of the crack. If you’re looking to protect the pitch, stick close to the crack; however, a confident leader at this grade can effectively free solo much of the route.

Plan ahead and avoid bailing mid-route! The proper descent requires traversing to climber's left from the top of the eighth pitch (see comments for First Creek Slabs). Case in point: We found two gorgeously green ropes abandoned on Pitch 7, along with a copious amount of blood. The owners seemingly tried to bail the same way they ascended. I unstuck the ropes and left them at the summit, due to our late start, the sun setting, and being pressed for time ourselves. The striped rope had a torn sheath at minimum; the solid rope was outwardly intact. Good karma for the group that packs them out!

While we efficiently navigated the rappel in the dark, strive for daylight. Anchors were placed with a 60-m rope in mind, so if you reach the end of a longer rope, you either passed the next anchor or it does not exist, requiring a bit of 4th-class scrambling. A second rope could protect some of the scrambling, but pulling a single 60-m was difficult as-is on the first couple of rappels. Practice good rappelling technique: (a) no matter your rope length, tie catastrophe knots, and (b) do not mindlessly let go of the rope when removing your belay device, as one rappel traverses several arm lengths from a blank-ish face to a slinged tree. Mar 9, 2018