First Creek Slabs Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Oct 8, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
The first key landmark is the obvious right-slanting chimney of Rising Moons. Immediately left (east) of the small Rising Moons buttress is the descent gully used by Algae on Parade and routes ending of the brushy ramp. To the right of Rising Moons is the sequence of low-angle buttresses climbed by Sunset Slab, Big Sky, and the Romanian Rib. Still further to the west (and now a few hundred yards upstream from Rising Moons) is the Echove, a recessed area of somewhat steeper rock that is almost granitic in texture.
Descent From The Longer Routes of First Creek Slabs
This descent description applies to most if not all of the seven pitch and longer routes between Sunset Slab on climber's left and Hot Flash on the right. I've climbed Lady Luck, Romanian Rib and Hot Flash for which this descent works.
After reaching the ledge that is the end point of these longer routes, scramble / hike down (usually to climber's left) to the low point of the ledge. There is usually a cairn at this point on the ledge as well as another cairn about 20 feet down on slabs towards the canyon bottom.
1st rap, < 35m and possibly < 30m: rap from bolts down low-angle gully to platform with bolted rap anchor on skier's right; platform is where the terrain starts to become more open.
2nd rap, 59m: double rope rap from bolts down the slot/groove to bolted rap just on skier's left side of groove; if you only have a single rope, pendulum during rap to skier's right to rope-less terrain. Scramble down to 4th rap.
3rd rap, 35m: rap to low angle slab just above vegetation section; or, with a single 60m rope, rap into gully/slot on skier's right; either way, after the rap, scramble down through veg to next bolted anchor.
4th rap, 55m: double rope rap from obvious bolts to rubble/dirt ledge, angling skier's right after descending below the relatively narrow gully. If you only have one rope, stop at huge mid-way platform below the narrow gully and look skier's right for tree/ bush from which one might do a brushy rap or down climb through 4th class or easy 5th to rubble/dirt ledge.
5th rap: 45m: double rope rap to easy slab-y terrain; if you only have a single rope, there are at least trees off to skier's right from which folks have split this rap into two.
If not done, scramble a little down to last slab-y platform before veg/dirt and head to skier's left end of platform to find ~6 ft part of a long down climb broken up by hiking/scrambling.
Classic Climbing Routes at First Creek Slabs
Days w Precip