Elevation: 4,307 ft
GPS: 36.08, -115.479 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68,116 total · 418/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The First Creek Slabs line the southern side of First Creek Canyon, starting just west (upstream) of the Lotta Balls and Romper Room areas. They extend for several hundred yards, forming a series of ribs and buttresses with a number of good routes. The slabs begin just a short distance above the streambed, so approaches are reasonably short and friendly. The slabs end a thousand to fifteen hundred feet higher, on a brushy ledge system beneath the imposing Upper Tier that extends another thousand or so feet to the ridgeline.

The first key landmark is the obvious right-slanting chimney of Rising Moons. Immediately left (east) of the small Rising Moons buttress is the descent gully used by Algae on Parade and routes ending of the brushy ramp. To the right of Rising Moons is the sequence of low-angle buttresses climbed by Sunset Slab, Big Sky, and the Romanian Rib. Still further to the west (and now a few hundred yards upstream from Rising Moons) is the Echove, a recessed area of somewhat steeper rock that is almost granitic in texture.

Getting There

Hike in via the First Creek Trail. Most of the routes are reached by staying on the trail low in the canyon until beneath the climb. Routes on the eastern end, near Rising Moons, can be reached on a short traversing trail from the Romper Room area.

Descent From The Longer Routes of First Creek Slabs

This descent description applies to most if not all of the seven pitch and longer routes between Sunset Slab on climber's left and Hot Flash on the right. I've climbed Lady Luck, Romanian Rib and Hot Flash for which this descent works.

After reaching the ledge that is the end point of these longer routes, scramble / hike down (usually to climber's left) to the low point of the ledge. There is usually a cairn at this point on the ledge as well as another cairn about 20 feet down on slabs towards the canyon bottom.

1st rap, < 35m and possibly < 30m: rap from bolts down low-angle gully to platform with bolted rap anchor on skier's right; platform is where the terrain starts to become more open.

2nd rap, 59m: double rope rap from bolts down the slot/groove to bolted rap just on skier's left side of groove; if you only have a single rope, pendulum during rap to skier's right to rope-less terrain. Scramble down to 4th rap.

3rd rap, 35m: rap to low angle slab just above vegetation section; or, with a single 60m rope, rap into gully/slot on skier's right; either way, after the rap, scramble down through veg to next bolted anchor.

4th rap, 55m: double rope rap from obvious bolts to rubble/dirt ledge, angling skier's right after descending below the relatively narrow gully. If you only have one rope, stop at huge mid-way platform below the narrow gully and look skier's right for tree/ bush from which one might do a brushy rap or down climb through 4th class or easy 5th to rubble/dirt ledge.

5th rap: 45m: double rope rap to easy slab-y terrain; if you only have a single rope, there are at least trees off to skier's right from which folks have split this rap into two.

If not done, scramble a little down to last slab-y platform before veg/dirt and head to skier's left end of platform to find ~6 ft part of a long down climb broken up by hiking/scrambling.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Creek Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 21
Romanian Rib
Trad 8 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 66
Rising Moons
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
Romanian Rib - Left Side
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Sunset Slab
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 7
Big Sky
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 92
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Sunset Slab Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Smooth Sailing
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Romanian Rib
 21
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 8 pitches
Rising Moons
 66
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Romanian Rib - Left Side
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Sunset Slab
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Big Sky
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 7 pitches
Lady Luck
 92
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Sunset Slab Direct
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Hot Flash
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Smooth Sailing
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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