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Routes in First Creek Slabs

Bad Moon Arising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Big Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Comeback Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Falling Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Flash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rising Moons T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Romanian Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Romanian Rib - Left Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smiley Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smooth Sailing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunset Slab Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan, Raluca Duncan - Oct 2006
Page Views: 2,335 total, 20/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a nice route that is generally easy climbing and short cruxes. It's only drawback is crispy holds in a few places. It can be most easily identified by a noticeable dark cresting-wave-like roof on the 3rd pitch. The first 4 pitches are long, clean, and fun. Above the route weaves through a series of aretes and buttresses.

Pitch 1: Climb up the face finding the path of least resistance. 195ft

Pitch 2: Continue up and left up to a roof in a left facing corner. Pull the roof and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up the crack below the wave-like roof. Traverse right on brown varnished rock to a crack at the right side of the roof. Continue up through the roof and belay in the crack above.

Pitch 4-7: Continue up the crack and face to a tree. From the tree move up and left around a buttress to a crack. Continue up this crack to the top in about 2 more pitches.

Location

This route lies just to the left of the Hotflash gully on a buttress which is bordered on the left by a bushy gully.

Descent: Use the usual First Creek Slabs descent.

Protection

Standard rack to 4"

There are no bolts on this route. Lets keep it that way.
David Carrier
White Salmon, WA
  5.4
David Carrier   White Salmon, WA
  5.4
Great route for soloing or beginners. Lots of big holds and a perfect hand crack for placing pro most of the way. There's a couple of runout pitches near the top, so beginners should lead the lower pitches.

I had difficulty finding the base of the climb. When you hike in, the trail crosses roughly 100' of very red rock. Big Sky, Lady Luck, and Romanian Rib are above this red slab, and there is a climber's trail heading up to the climbs. Mar 6, 2017
Will Carney
Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.5
Will Carney   Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.5
Fun day out in a sparsely visited canyon. Oct 21, 2016
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.4
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.4
A very long, fun, easy route. Mostly solid rock with the occasional pause for careful climbing in areas where the rock is yet to be cleaned. Protection is few and far in between in many places but the climbing is so casual that it's not really an issue. 2 and a half stars. Nov 25, 2014
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
 
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
 
I was not impressed by this route. Many better options on the Slabs to either side.... The first three pitches were quite good, but the rock quality, protection, line, and rock all deteriorated dramatically on the next few pitches, detracting from the fun. Mar 20, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
Multumesc mult. A fost o zi minunata pt. catarat pe munte! Mar 27, 2008
A fun route with beautiful views! The first long pitch is super duper great for new trad leaders, or a fun solo for more experienced climbers.

I thought that most of the rock on this route was great; not one hold broke off on me, which says a lot on the overall quality (for a newer Red Rock route, anyway).

We simul-climbed a good portion of this route, as it's fun, mellow climbing.
It would be a super fast way to get to the climbs on the upper walls (First Creek Slabs Ledge) if you are okay with simul-climbing, and decent at route-finding.

Thanks for putting this one up, Larry DeAngelo, and Raluca, and Karsten Duncan; It made my day! Mar 27, 2008