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Areas in First Creek Canyon

Alcohol Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
First Creek Slabs 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Labyrinth Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lotta Balls Wall 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Mudterm Area 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Romper Room 9 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Schoolyard, The 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Slippery Buttress 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Slippery Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Slot Club Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Strawberry Hill Buttress 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Rising Moons
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doobie Dance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Romper Room
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Algae on Parade
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kindergarten Cop
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral
4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bruja's Brew
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rob Roy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gin Ricky
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mai Tai
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Straight Shot
Trad
Rising Moons First Creek Slabs 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Doobie Dance Romper Room 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Romper Room Romper Room 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Algae on Parade Romper Room 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Lady Luck First Creek Slabs 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Kindergarten Cop Romper Room 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lotta Balls Lotta Balls Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic Lotta Balls Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Trihardral Lotta Balls Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 pitches
Hot Flash First Creek Slabs 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Bruja's Brew Lotta Balls Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Rob Roy Alcohol Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gin Ricky Alcohol Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mai Tai Alcohol Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
Straight Shot Alcohol Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
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