Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 3,642 ft 1,110 m
GPS: 36.08121, -115.44783
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 365,183 total · 1,458/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Includes Lotta Balls Wall. Also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

139 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: (14) First Creek Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 192
Doobie Dance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 231
Romper Room
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 103
Algae on Parade
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 138
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 631
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 486
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 110
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Frank's Right Foot Stinks
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 75
Rob Roy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 93
Gin Ricky
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Tongue and Groove
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 61
Mai Tai
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Undertone
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Shadow Corner
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
Straight Shot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Doobie Dance Romper Room
 192
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Romper Room Romper Room
 231
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Algae on Parade Romper Room
 103
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Lady Luck First Creek Slabs
 138
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Lotta Balls Lotta Balls Wall
 631
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic Lotta Balls Wall
 486
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Hot Flash First Creek Slabs
 110
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Frank's Right Foot Stinks Romper Room
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Rob Roy Alcohol Wall
 75
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gin Ricky Alcohol Wall
 93
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tongue and Groove Slippery Buttress
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Mai Tai Alcohol Wall
 61
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
The Undertone Slippery Buttress
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Shadow Corner Amber Oasis
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Straight Shot Alcohol Wall
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Creek Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading