Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 3,642 ft 1,110 m
GPS: 36.08121, -115.44782
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 366,540 total · 1,381/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Includes Lotta Balls Wall. Also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

141 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: First Creek Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at First Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 212
Doobie Dance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 252
Romper Room
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 162
Lady Luck
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 676
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 519
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Hot Flash
Trad 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Return of the Jedi
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Frank's Right Foot Stinks
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 78
Rob Roy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 97
Gin Ricky
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Tongue and Groove
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 63
Mai Tai
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Undertone
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Shadow Corner
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 28
Straight Shot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Doobie Dance Romper Room
 212
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Romper Room Romper Room
 252
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lady Luck First Creek Slabs
 162
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Lotta Balls Lotta Balls Wall
 676
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic Lotta Balls Wall
 519
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Hot Flash First Creek Slabs
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Return of the Jedi Schoolyard
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Frank's Right Foot Stinks Romper Room
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Rob Roy Alcohol Wall
 78
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Gin Ricky Alcohol Wall
 97
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tongue and Groove Slippery Buttress
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Mai Tai Alcohol Wall
 63
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
The Undertone Slippery Buttress
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Shadow Corner Amber Oasis
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Straight Shot Alcohol Wall
 28
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in First Creek Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading