Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

At the mouth of First Creek Canyon, on the south (left) side, there is an area of complex cliff bands with several good routes. In Joanne Urioste's 1984 guidebook, she says merely, "Short climbs abound in the broken easternmost section at the mouth of the canyon." Much of the history is hazy, but Joe Herbst, Mark Moore, and Tom Kaufman (and probably others) did a number of lines back in the 70s.

Most of the cliffs face northeast and stay relatively cool. The rock ranges from excellent varnish to the sandy white variety.

Getting There

Hike in on the First Creek Trail. About the time the main trail drops into the sandy canyon bottom, exit left and follow faint trails up an indefinite ridge to reach the cliffs. As you reach the top of the ridge, bear left for routes near the Coffin Corner, or right for routes near the Schoolyard Bully.

Allow at least an hour from the trailhead.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Schoolyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Deja Vu
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Return of the Jedi
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Coffin Corner
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Honcho Imposter
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deja Vu
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Return of the Jedi
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Coffin Corner
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Honcho Imposter
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Schoolyard »

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George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
An hour is a long way to walk to school. Probably uphill both ways, too. Feb 11, 2009
The trail stays on the crest of the ridge until just below the giant boulders, at which point keep looking right for an inobvious but well-cairned trail that avoids the boulders and brush. Apr 13, 2018