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Routes in Slippery Buttress

Slip of the Arrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippermen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tongue and Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undertone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 425 total, 21/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A great pitch of low-angle face and slab climbing followed by an enjoyable and easier corner pitch. Begin dead center on the wall.

P1 (5.10c, 150'): Boulder up to the first bolt (crux - but the slab and landing are gentle if you blow it), then continue up the wall via easier but excellent climbing. Wander out left, then back right, and make sure to have a handful of small cams and wires at the ready for protecting this pitch.

P2: (5.10b, 140'): Continue up the corner above. Ignore the anchor directly overhead and instead move out right through a scrub oak and belay at a bolted anchor set up for rappel.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

Protection

A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.

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Josh Janes    
 
Sick for Toys is probably better 5.10 slabbing... but on the other hand you could counter that Sick for Toys is actually 5.11 :) May 1, 2016
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.10c
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.10c
Great pitch, maybe the best 5.10 slabbing pitch in Red Rocks. Apr 24, 2016
An awesome slab climb. First pitch is difficult and balancy. Second pitch isn't nearly as good, but still fun. First pitch is mostly bolted with some tiny cams and small wires to supplement. Second pitch can take a #4 cam and various cams from #1 down. Crux could be down low or right below the bulge 2/3 of the way up the first pitch. Both parts felt difficult. I agree Josh Janes that Sick for Toys is probably better slabbing, but also agree that it definitely felt harder! Apr 18, 2016