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Routes in Slippery Buttress

Slip of the Arrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippermen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tongue and Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undertone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 528 total, 27/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Undertone is the gem of the Slippery Buttress routes. It climbs an exposed position along the right edge of the buttress connecting interesting features up a beautiful stretch of rock. There is plenty of 5.9 and 5.10a slabbing and thin face climbing, but the actual crux is the upper corner.

P1 (120', 5.10b): Climb up the right arete of the buttress following bolts and occasional gear placements to a roof. Pull through this and continue straight up via a well-protected seam, or step out right and follow the arete (easy but unprotected). Either path ends at a bolted anchor.

P2 (170', 5.10d): Move right off the belay and follow an interesting, leaning corner to a small, arching roof. Step left around the arete below this roof, then climb up and back right (now above the roof) and up into the upper corner. Climb up this with some difficulty to an anchor.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

Protection

A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.

Photos

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Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You should bring some "large" RPs or a good selection of small nuts for P1.

It looked like you could get down with one 70M rope if you swing to the right and down climb a small pillar. Apr 29, 2016
Another awesome route on this wall. The rock is bullet. The climb is hard, but worth the effort. Hard slab climbing down low and a physical crux up high after the roof makes for a very varied climb. We were able to use a #4 under the roof and a #2 in the high crack above the roof. Gear on the first pitch is tenuous and may or may not hold a big fall. Apr 18, 2016