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Routes in Slippery Buttress

Slip of the Arrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slippermen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tongue and Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Undertone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 240 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is a good warmup for the others on the wall. The first pitch is the highest quality. The second pitch is a fun, short connector pitch that leads to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tongue and Groove and is fun in a sorta grovely kinda way. The third pitch is the same as the second pitch of Tongue and Groove. If you do all three pitches you never climb anything much harder than 10a.

P1 (5.10a, 90'): Begin left of center on the slab and climb easily to a first bolt, perform a mantle, then cruise all the way up to a bolted anchor. A single grey Alien or similar cam will protect an otherwise huge runout early on this pitch.

P2 (5.10b, 50'): Move up off the belay, clip a high bolt, step up to a roof and move awkwardly around it to the right. Chimney up the groove eventually reaching an anchor shared with the first pitch of Tongue and Groove.

P3 (5.10b, 140'): Tongue and Groove's second pitch. Continue up the corner less awkwardly. Ignore the anchor directly overhead and instead move out right through a scrub oak and belay at a bolted anchor set up for rappel.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

Protection

Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot. Wires. Draws. One 80m rope or two ropes.

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