Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Crawford, Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Paul Obenheim 1983
Page Views: 4,242 total · 27/month
Shared By: J W on Sep 10, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


65 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A proud and beautiful line, Gin Ricky ascends the prominent right facing dihedral located on the left hand side of the Alcohol Wall. While it does have a distinct crux section, endurance is the name of the game on this route.

Location

This route is the obvious, clean dihedral just to the right of the Lotta Balls wall.

Protection

A healthy rack, emphasis on small gear (stoppers and cams). Two ropes to rappel.

Photos

Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Really nice. This climb has great movement and a really cool crux sequence that, for me, was not immediately apparent. I would definately bring extra small stuff (purple and grey TCU, green and blue aliens, lots of small wires). 180 ft to the achors = full value. Nov 27, 2006
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.10+
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.10+
Really good route with cool moves and plenty of climbing. The crux is plenty thin and if you have big sausage fingers, expect to be challenged more than a diminutive waif. This route eats up the pro, be it stoppers or small TCU's. Pump factor is not too bad as there are plenty of opportunities to rest, except during the crux section.

For rack I had a full set of stoppers, a couple of small TCU's to 3/4" (could have easily used a triple set here) and then a double set of cams to 3", and one 3.5" cam. Oct 28, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
Great route and was very happy that the lead was not mine. Even with my ladyfingers I found the route to have long sections of extremely thin fingers. Leading this route is a great send no matter what your ability is.

Fun & recommended! Oct 28, 2008
MJW
Boise, ID
  5.10c
MJW   Boise, ID
  5.10c
Ditto on the comments above. I used triples on 0 and 1 TCU's. Much of the crack is parallel so placing nuts is a bit trickier in these sections. Great route to push yourself on as the pro is good and you can get it anywhere you want. Oct 29, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
MJW, is this you?



Nov 1, 2008
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
Bring a good sized rack - lots of wires and small to medium cams plus a few large cams. You can lace this up as much as you want. Starts easy, ends easy but Middle 1/2 to 2/3 is solid 5.10 with short sections of thin tip/palming cruxes with poor slippery feet. Full value 180 feet of crack climbing. If you only have time for one hard route I think Rob Roy is a little more aesthetic. Mar 27, 2010
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
Kevin Dahlstrom   Boulder, CO
This route is physically harder but mentally easier than Rob Roy. Thin crux but plenty of pro. Full value! Mar 19, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10c
The crux section and beyond felt like an Indian Creek corner finger splitter. There's a specific sequence you can use to gain a lot of ground fast. The gear is bomber, the moves are great and this route is so long- a classic. I can see this being 5.10d if you're a bit shorter as the crux moves involved a longer pull on an OK finger lock. Stellar! Oct 4, 2011
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
josh holcomb   Las Vegas, NV
This climb is beautiful. Probably the best single pitch at this grade at RR. I used triple .3 BD and under, two .4 and .5 BD, and single 2,3, and 4 BD. Save the 4 for the very end of the climb. I only used one stopper about thumbnail size. This climb is perfect for breaking into this grade because you can almost always get gear when you want it. Oct 21, 2012
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
When I climbed this a year ago I remember thinking I could have placed as many blue aliens as I could get my hands on. Great, long route that stays on ya most of the way. Mar 8, 2017
Max Shaffer
Boston, MA
  5.10c
Max Shaffer   Boston, MA
  5.10c
One of the best pitches of rock climbing in Red Rocks, and dare I say it... the country. 180 feet of finger locks, hand jams, dihedral stemming, face climbing, and even a few delicate moves on iron balls. Excellent (but thin) gear throughout. Get on it! Apr 8, 2019
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Max is right as usual! One of the best pitches around! Standard rack to #4, with triples of 0.1-0.5. There is a very uncomfortable two bolt hanging belay at the end, but you will not mind after doing this gem. Two 60 m ropes will get you down.

The crux is a bizarre tips move with high feet followed by some desperate (for me) smearing. In my opinion, this climb is much harder than The Nightcrawler, La Cierta Edad, or Triassic Sands. Max says that the one weird corner move on The Nightcrawler is comparable, but I found that section to be manageable. This is more like a Squamish 10+ than a Red Rocks 10+ with the long and sustained crack climbing (mostly tips). Apr 8, 2019