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Routes in Alcohol Wall

Friendship Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gin Ricky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mai Tai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rob Roy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straight Shot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Ven Betten, Paul Obenheim, Sal Mamusia
Page Views: 3,485 total, 26/month
Shared By: kirra on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climb the polished corner just to the left of the Friendship Route. At the top go right to the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch of Friendship.

Photos

Logan Parr
  5.10+ PG13
Logan Parr  
  5.10+ PG13
Pretty fun route but honestly the logistical hastle of cleaning this thing with it being as tall as it is and having the bolts 25 ft. to the right of the line(???) made the whole thing almost not worth it. If you have a 70m rope maybe you can have a second clean on top rope? Otherwise you’ll have to top belay from the anchor and then rap with two ropes. Which seems silly for a single pitch route. Anyone have a good way to clean this route without wanting to pull your hair out? Again, fun climbing but I wouldn’t ever climb it again if it doesn’t get its own anchors. Dec 2, 2017
David Bruneau
St. John
  5.10d PG13
David Bruneau   St. John
  5.10d PG13
I feel a PG13 on this. Good but often very small gear, with the hard moves coming with said gear at or below your feet. Definitely want solid thin crack protection skills. I placed a lot of ballnuts (2 red, 2 yellow, 1 blue) on this route and no rp's or micro cams, probably not absolutely necessary but they provide very solid pro at the crux and elsewhere. Nov 20, 2016
paulmadry
  5.10+
paulmadry  
  5.10+
ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent) Apr 25, 2013
-robin-
  5.10+
-robin-  
  5.10+
Not runout with the right gear, small nuts and cams to 1", nothing bigger, very fun, memorable for sure! Oct 17, 2012
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
 
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
 
Agree with everyone, definitely not R rated. Good climbing and great rock, I just wish that the crux was more than one move! Jun 2, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
If you bring the right gear and put it in the correct places, this is not a run-out climb. (ironically true of any climb) For some reason, when there are fewer gear options, people start to think that it means a climb is runout... Apr 6, 2011
Cpn Dunsel  
 
Best route on the Alcohol wall. Mar 20, 2011
Manjushri  
 
The best route on the cliff in my opinion, excellent technical climbing with a distinct crux and good gear when you need it. Old school and awesome. Nov 19, 2007
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10+ PG13
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10+ PG13
This pitch is an ultra classic and should not be missed!! A few bouldery moves get you up to a good stance below a small roof about 10 feet up. You can get good gear under the roof and a few good but small stoppers over the next ten feet. A bolt appears just when needed at about 25 feet. The crux is a very polished section of the corner where the crack becomes a seam. I placed a very good yellow C3 and a small stopper to protect the crux. The protection is at your feet when starting the hard moves so the move is a little scary and you are risking a moderate length fall by the time the hard stuff is over. There is a bomber lock in the corner past the smooth section, do whatever necessary to get it! I placed a great medium stopper in the finger lock. More tricky stemming passing another bolt gets you to the top of the main corner and one final bolt that protects the traverse right to the top of the friendship route. Some moderate runouts are encountered in the upper corner system. Rap with a single 70 or two 60's to the base of the Friendship route. Oct 2, 2007