Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblom
Page Views: 3,179 total · 23/month
Shared By: Manjushri on Nov 19, 2007 with improvements by Xtine
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Start just to the right of the main corner, stem your way into it and fire up with various stemming and crack technique to a roof. Pull around the right side and continue up the nice crack in a right facing corner above to the bolted anchor.


Just left of the Gin Ricky corner is a shorter, right facing corner with a roof about 2/3 of the way up, followed by a nice 1-2" crack.


RP's, Nuts and cams to a #1 Camalot. Double up on fingers to the #1. Pro is good.


Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
Best route on the wall IMO if you climb the grade. Go for the onsight, it's strenuous and pretty wild, but the gear is great. Jun 2, 2012
  5.11d PG13
  5.11d PG13
Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro. Apr 25, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.

Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky Dec 5, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
I find it hard to call it the best route on the wall due to it's length, but it is an awesome route with wild stemming. I also found it well protected. I don't think it's runout at all unless you consider gear at your feet runout. Very stout in the grade, pushing into 12-. Oct 25, 2015
Jorge Jordan
Jorge Jordan  
Thing eats small pro, all bomber. Crux is short, but HARD. Similar maybe in difficulty to the crux pitch on Jupiter II, definitely harder but much shorter crux than on CT. I was happy to have a #2 C4 when I got to the first roof, could place it a little deeper in better rock. I'd be even happier with thinner fingers. Really great short pitch. May 23, 2016