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Routes in Alcohol Wall

Friendship Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gin Ricky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mai Tai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rob Roy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straight Shot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, et al
Page Views: 4,205 total, 26/month
Shared By: Todd Ritter on Sep 2, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start 20 feet below and 15 feet left of a left facing corner system. Use the big cams you've been carrying in your pack for the belay anchor on this large, albeit exposed ledge. Move up the right trending features past the first bolt to a roof formed by the start of the left facing hanging corner. A blue alien protects the entry into this corner (somewhat spicy to and past this point, PG-13). Let the fun continue as you move up this left facing corner for the remainder of the pitch. Once established into the corner the pro is good. Wherever the crack closes down, there is a bolt you'll gladly clip. A nice ledge with anchors at the top of the pitch. 150' rappel puts you back at the base.

Protection

RP's, Stoppers with extra medium, 2 of each cam from blue alien through 2.5 friend. 10 QD's

Photos

This thing is awesome. Spicy, sure, but so excellent. If you're a solid 5.10 or higher climber, I don't think you should worry too much about this crux. Was over before I knew it. Really fun and thoughtful movement to get to the jug rail at the end of the crux. I used a #2 Cam in the pocket above the bolt and two lobes of a yellow TCU in a little pod right when you first get into the corner. Both are marginal, but I think they would probably hold. Definitely go after this thing. You'll be stoked you did. Oct 20, 2016
As Russ mentioned above, I highly suggest crossing LOW into the corner after the first bolt, if there is indeed gear there. Again like Russ said, crossing high like we did, there's not gear until you're well up and established in the seam, and you will deck if 10b grips you. Did both this and Mai Tai for the onsight, and I felt much more spooked on this having apparently missed gear, though the climbing is of course a little harder on Mai Tai. May 23, 2016
This route was awesome! The pro is thin, and spaced, but it's there when you need it. I carried Metolius Astro brass nuts and wasn't able to get them to sit right in the seam. Maybe i'm not so good at placing them, or maybe a different brand works better? If 10b is right around your onsite limit, like me,this will probably feel spooky, but not unreasonable. Apr 1, 2016
Followed the topo (direct) to the first bolt (yikes) - the followers had an easier time coming in from the left. (May 2011) Jan 6, 2013
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
Fantastic route and bold lead. Once you clip the first bolt you have to make the crux moves without knowing when (or if) you'll get additional protection. Without any beta I seriously considered backing off. Once you get into the corner, the difficulty eases a bit but it still feels a little spicy all the way to the anchor. One of the best pitches I've done at Red Rocks. I look forward to trying Mai Tai. Mar 19, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b PG13
5.10b: Big cam under base for belay since you are pretty high on a ledge. Climb carefully to bolt with a spotter- you can get a big blue Camelot just left and above to back it up. Straight above and slightly left 8 feet is another horizontal that will take a 3 inch yellow or red Camelot - marginal but might hold. Few thin moves to right into corner and the rest is a cruise. Chains at belay as of January 2010. Jan 20, 2010
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
As of 19 May, Anchor did have chains on it. Nice pull too. Thanks much to whoever put them up. Cheers. May 20, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
The slabby section below the first bolt are solid moves and relatively grippy rock and didn't seem to get slick until after the first bolt. Starting directly below the bolt would provide an OK landing if you did happen to come off. Starting right in the corner (as Russ mentioned) looked much harder and would certainly provide a worse fall factor.

Crack seemed to take pro when needed and the route provided 2 bolts in the crack section which seemed somewhat unnecessary as passive pro was available. That said....just clip and go! Oct 28, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b R
Really good route. The quasi direct start up a few laybacks in a left facing corner is not too bad, and crossing over to the left to get the bolt seemed solid. After clipping the bolt, I went straight up via thin face moves and entered the main corner system out right fairly high. If done this way, you are not going to get any pro until you are well up and established in the seam. You will deck, for sure if you blow it. But, at least three other people who were there crossed much lower into the corner and appeared to get some pretty good pro as described in the comments above. Anchor was adequate with fairly fresh webbing on 10/25/08 Oct 28, 2008
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10b PG13
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10b PG13
This pitch is spectacular!! A great warm up for the harder and scarier Mai Tai. A decent #2 camelot protects the moves getting to the first bolt. The crux is getting established in the corner right of the bolt and is a little spicy but not desperate. The corner above has some beautiful climbing with moderate run outs between sections of very good gear and bolts. The rap station had two rings and decent webbing. Chains would be a great addition to this anchor. The bolts are all new and bomber. Oct 2, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
Great route, but pretty spicy on lead. Make sure to pay careful attention after you pass the first bolt- pro is sparse and the climbing is tricky.

Above, you'll find a spectacular seam that seem to go forever!

Note: As of Sept '06, the rap station is in bad need of new webbing and new rap rings. If you get back there before I do, please take some and repair it! Thanks! Sep 10, 2006