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Routes in Alcohol Wall

Friendship Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gin Ricky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mai Tai T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rob Roy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straight Shot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Herbst and company, Fall 1976
Page Views: 1,417 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on May 13, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Friendship Route is the rightmost corner on the Alcohol Wall.

P1 (110 feet, 5.8) Follow the corner to a two bolt anchor. The wide crack looks low angle, but is actually a little awkward.

P2 (40 feet, 5.9) Continue up the corner, stemming on balls, past a bolt. Belay on the massive ledge from a bush.

Walk east on the ledge and rappel with two ropes from the two bolt anchor atop Rob Roy.

Protection

Rack up to 7".
Always a great adventure on a Herbst route. Only did the first pitch but definitely coming back to do the second! From the first pitch anchors the second pitch actually looked like quality climbing...like the lotta balls crux pitch but stouter. If your sketching on the first pitch wide crack you can always walk a #6 up the cruxy sections....but it's not too bad if you just jam whatever part of your body fits in that thing and just heave upward...at one point I had a pretty good head-jam. Quality climbing overall. PS. Thanks for the quicklinks and new webbing on the 1st pitch anchor it really needed it. Solid. Apr 13, 2012
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Old school cool route! If you don't have a large cam you can gun for a narrow spot ~12ft after starting the wide crack. There I got a bomber Met #9 Powercam and then gunned for the chains. Secure, if you are ok with off-width technique.

We skipped the second pitch, it looked uninviting and dirty. We also put some new quicklinks and webbing on the P1 anchor. Enjoy! Mar 11, 2011
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
Pretty stout for 5.9 climbing. A #6 Camalot was definitely helpful for the wide section.

Also, it's important to note that the route can certainly be climbed in a single pitch. The crux however is immediately off the p1 anchor so we opted not to link the pitches so that close visual contact could be made at the crux. May 14, 2009