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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 4,424 ft
GPS: 36.078, -115.478 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 29,365 total, 174/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

Excellent rock, good quality traditional routes, and a bit of shade characterize this north-facing wall. Most of the climbs are four pitches long and end on a broken ledge system part way up the main face. The standard descent is via the gully on the left (east) side of the face. Some scrambling and 2 or 3 short rappels get you down to the easy terrain. As you approach the bottom stay tight to the left and hug the base of the cliff. Climb down through a small notch to arrive exactly at your pack.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Park at the First Creek trailhead on Route 159. Follow a wide trail west. As the trail nears the mouth of the canyon, it drops into the wash for a while. It then continues on the bench on the south side of the stream until it climbs the short steep hill to the base of the wall

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lotta Balls Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Balls
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Magic
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kick in the Balls
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral
4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power to Waste
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dodgeball
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bruja's Brew
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beer Run
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lotta Balls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Black Magic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Kick in the Balls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 pitches
Power to Waste 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dodgeball 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Bruja's Brew 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Beer Run 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lotta Balls Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
For those from out of town who are looking to climb moderates this time of year, you won't need any sunscreen (value). If temps are normal to below normal from mid-November thru early February this wall is great training for how to climb with cold fingers (more value). Even if the wind is only blowing 5-10, your thermoregulatory skills will be on display before you finish the first pitch (even more value). If all goes well you can bang out as many routes as you want; it won't be crowded (the most value of all!). enkoopa the Eskimo is sand-bagging the sun-birds. Jan 12, 2016
enkoopa  
This is one of my favorite areas. You can get here nice and early and bang out two or three of the climbs here. For those from out of town looking to climb moderates, the value in this crag is huge! Jan 11, 2016
"Decent from the wall has three raps. Careful not to miss the 3rd rap station it will be on the left. The second is a short one."

+1

Second rap heads towards the healthy tree out at the edge of a ledge and is on the rappeller's/climber's right. Keep right of the brush aiming for the tree and bolts marking the final rap will be obvious when even with the tree. Mar 25, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
3 raps with a single 60 will get you down safely. Make sure you've got your ends even, the first rap is about 95 feet. Apr 5, 2012
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
Decent from the wall has three raps. Careful not to miss the 3rd rap station it will be on the left. The second is a short one. Mar 22, 2012

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