Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Greg Barnes, Sandra Horna, Josh Thompson|
|Page Views:||857 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Apr 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPitch 1: Begin up the obvious corner/ramp. Follow this to a belay at an Oak tree with some rap sling's on it. Belay at the tree or 10 feet higher at a stance. 5.7, 200ft.
Pitch 2: The crux pitch. Follow the obvious right facing corner/ overlap system up and right. About 30ft off the belay find some good gear then do face moves across a section of white rock. Head for the obvious crack system. Follow these cracks up and left to an area of trees. Climb up and right through the trees. Belay at a very good ledge directly below a varnished open book corner.
Pitch 3: Stem up the varnished corner above, fiddling in nuts for gear. Belay on the obvious huge ledge, which is near the last pitch of Lotta balls. 5.10b, 50ft.
Pitch 4: Climb the last pitch of Lotta Balls. 5.5, 70ft.
Use the standard Lotta Balls descent.
LocationThe route is located on the east face of the Lotta balls buttress. Start very near the bottom of the buttress, near the start of the route Beerrun. This route is very obvious from the standard Lotta Balls descent.
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