Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Barnes, Sandra Horna, Josh Thompson
Page Views: 1,586 total · 8/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Begin up the obvious corner/ramp. Follow this to a belay at an Oak tree with some rap sling's on it. Belay at the tree or 10 feet higher at a stance. 5.7, 200ft.

Pitch 2: The crux pitch. Follow the obvious right facing corner/ overlap system up and right. About 30ft off the belay find some good gear then do face moves across a section of white rock. Head for the obvious crack system. Follow these cracks up and left to an area of trees. Climb up and right through the trees. Belay at a very good ledge directly below a varnished open book corner.
5.10c, 120ft.

Pitch 3: Stem up the varnished corner above, fiddling in nuts for gear. Belay on the obvious huge ledge, which is near the last pitch of Lotta balls. 5.10b, 50ft.

Pitch 4: Climb the last pitch of Lotta Balls. 5.5, 70ft.

Use the standard Lotta Balls descent.

Location Suggest change

The route is located on the east face of the Lotta balls buttress. Start very near the bottom of the buttress, near the start of the route Beerrun. This route is very obvious from the standard Lotta Balls descent.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. You might want a couple of RP's for the Varnished corner pitch. Maybe an Extra 3" piece for pitch 2.

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