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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Barnes, Sandra Horna, Josh Thompson
Page Views: 875 total · 7/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Begin up the obvious corner/ramp. Follow this to a belay at an Oak tree with some rap sling's on it. Belay at the tree or 10 feet higher at a stance. 5.7, 200ft.

Pitch 2: The crux pitch. Follow the obvious right facing corner/ overlap system up and right. About 30ft off the belay find some good gear then do face moves across a section of white rock. Head for the obvious crack system. Follow these cracks up and left to an area of trees. Climb up and right through the trees. Belay at a very good ledge directly below a varnished open book corner.
5.10c, 120ft.

Pitch 3: Stem up the varnished corner above, fiddling in nuts for gear. Belay on the obvious huge ledge, which is near the last pitch of Lotta balls. 5.10b, 50ft.

Pitch 4: Climb the last pitch of Lotta Balls. 5.5, 70ft.

Use the standard Lotta Balls descent.

Location

The route is located on the east face of the Lotta balls buttress. Start very near the bottom of the buttress, near the start of the route Beerrun. This route is very obvious from the standard Lotta Balls descent.

Protection

Standard Rack. You might want a couple of RP's for the Varnished corner pitch. Maybe an Extra 3" piece for pitch 2.

Photos

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J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.10c
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.10c
I want to add a couple more comments about the route without cluttering the description.
The first pitch had more than Likely been climbed before. We found a cam that had been left as an obvious retreat piece plus rap slings on the trees. The trees on the second pitch also had rap slings, however these appeared to be from people screwing up the Lotta balls descent.This is probably the case with the slings on the first pitch as well. The 2nd pitch had obviously not been climbed, nor the 3rd.

I really enjoyed this route. The crux is alittle sandy, but fun. You defiantly have to think your way through it. Apr 3, 2008
Stefan E
West Los Angeles, CA
 
Stefan E   West Los Angeles, CA
 
Pitch 2 was really sandy and there were lots of the "balls" that broke off. I'm glad I didn't lead that pitch. Could be a fun pitch if it gets more traffic. Nov 2, 2017

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