Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: No one special
Page Views: 758 total, 13/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 17, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Interesting linkup of the quality first pitch of Lotta Balls with the upper pitches of Bruja's Brew, hence the name. The grade on this makes it the physically easiest line up the wall that I know of, but the character of the route makes it a stouter challenge than many trade routes of the same grade in the area-certainly miles trickier than Algae On Parade, for instance. Follow the first pitch of Lotta Balls past the anchor of that route, climbing right past obvious large flakes to horizontals that eat TCUs and then a short seam that takes a variety of good pro to the P1 anchor on Bruja's. Follow P2+3 of Bruja's to the top-more demanding climbing and trickier pro, as well as a large traverse that can cause massive drag if not efficiently engineered, make the upper 2/3 more serious and challenging than might be apparent until in the thick of things. A heads-up if not truly dangerous route-5.9 climbers on Bruja's have walked up these pitches for years, but don't expect walk-in-the-park plug-and-chug Birdland action here, boys and girls.

Location

This route is located where it is found.

Protection

I always rock double cams from tips to #3 with a full set of wires and a #4 boat anchor in Red Rock. This will serve well on the route, with plenty of gear left for improvising belays where convenient.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ben Townsend  
 
Way fun. Small wires are nice on the second pitch. I suppose one could find a place for a #4 somewhere on this route, but you'd really have to look. Nov 12, 2014
A fun route for someone looking for a little variety on a much-traveled cliff. Pitch 2 is a real gem in my book. A better link-up than the one described here might be to link Lotta Brews' first pitches into P3 of Black Magic, but this would bump up the grade a bit, and avoid the thought-provoking roof-to-traverse section on P3 of Bruja's, which kept the excitment pretty high for the grade.

Thanks to my thankless partner who endured yet another run up a moderate to scope out what needed to be replaced on this cliff many moons ago. I told you I'd get around to posting it up-look, it only took me a year and a half! Mar 18, 2013