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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Thompson, Marc Hemmes, Brian Kosta Fall 1998
Page Views: 2,605 total · 15/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Feb 18, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


As one looks up and left (climbers) from the top of Lotta Balls wall, you will see an obvious crack splitting an varnished buttress...voila!! Scramble to the base, from the top of LOBW.Start from a nice ledge at the base of this obvious crack, the crack starts off fingers and goes to #5 camalot size on the first pitch. Belay from 2 bolts on the left side of the crack- 5.8. Pitch 2 Upward!! Continue up the wide crack to the top of the buttress...there is a flake that creates smaller gear placements about midway up the pitch-5.8.Descent: it is possible to descend down either side of the buttress, both involve downclimbing and, depending on one's downclimbing abilities, possibly rappels. If you choose to go down the gully to the west you will join the standard descent for LOBW. If you choose to go to the east you will have to do some circutious route finding.



SR, up to a #5(old style) camalot- Big bros are not needed.


- No Photos -
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.7 R
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.7 R
I was really grooving on this crack, all the way up to the roof that caps the chimney, halfway up pitch 2. Then I found that the two toaster-oven-sized blocks that form the left side of the roof are dangerously loose and ready to drop out at the slightest pull (they shifted when I just barely touched them). Then I couldn't get off this climb fast enough. Beware. Apr 23, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Chris....Roof that caps the chimney? I'm's been awhile but I don't remember a roof?

josh Jun 4, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.7 R
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.7 R
Well, OK, not a 'roof' per se (i.e., not an overhung feature that sticks out from the wall). Maybe my memory's a little fuzzy on the details, but at, or very near, the top of the chimney on P2 there's a horizontal band of rock, or maybe a wedged block, that sort of caps the chimney top. That's where the scary looseness occurs (I can't pinpoint the exact spot in any of the available photos on MP). I was already way runout from my last #6 Friend, so it was a little sketch. From there I remember leaving the ever-widening crack behind and heading slightly rightish to avoid the looseness, then back left to continue up the lower angle face/buttress to the top.
I think trundling out the loose blocks would require making sure that no one is going down the LBW descent at the same time. Jun 5, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Good to know. It's been quite awhile since I did this climb. I didn't remember anything loose...but memories fade and things change. Thanks for posting!

josh Jun 8, 2009
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
There are some blocks on a bit of a ledge as mentioned, but are easily avoided and just rock around a bit. No need to trundle just don't use the loose blocks, climb easy terrain around to the right. The face around the crack is very featured on this entire route. Fun, but not even as hard as the grade would suggest. Apr 16, 2018

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