Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Josh Thompson, Jon Gleason, John Wilder Spring 2007
Page Views: 2,012 total, 16/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

B - double E - double R-U-N!!!

The route is located on the East wall of the Lotta Balls formation. Start about 15 ft left of the N/E corner of the formation.

Pitch #1: Climb the obvious crack, starting out hands then becoming wide for awhile. The crux comes near the top when the crack pinches down to a perfect finger crack through a steep varnished section. Belay at the obvious ledge/cave. 180' 5.10c/d

Pitch #2: Traverse out right of the belay through some so-so rock to gain the edge of the hanging fin that makes up the eastern edge of the north face. Climb up the outside of this fin to its top. Belay from bolts that are part of the Trihardral route. 190' 5.9

Pitch #3: Continue up the easy last pitch of Lotta Balls.

Protection

1 set nuts, doubles through #4.

Photos

Definitely an exciting pitch. Be careful, however, as much of it has loose rock and frail holds that tend to break. Apr 21, 2015
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Looks like a sweet one Josh, and Johns. I can't believe I walked past this thing a million times this year and didn't go up that thing. Nice work, I can't wait to try it. May 8, 2007