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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 580 ft, 4 pitches
FA: the Uriostes 1978
Page Views: 16,765 total, 101/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Apr 19, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.

P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face to belay at a single bolt (and gear in crack, or cool natural thread).

P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.

P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.

P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.

Protection

Nuts, tcus and cams to hand size should do ya.
James Gurian  
 
I thought this was overrated. The first pitch is really cool, but the second (while easy) felt a little flaky and the gear is sometimes...less than inspiring. Then after the first twenty feet of the third pitch, it's 5.0 to the top.

Also, what's with the bolts? I clipped them all, and the two protecting the start were nice (although not really necessary). But the bolt at the P1 belay seemed totally unnecessary. May 8, 2017
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
In response to Suz above, I do not believe what you are referring to is a Leeper hanger. It is an older lever-out hanger, but is in incredibly solid rock. You are also equalizing it to a brand new bolt to the right of it, and there is a crack to the left of the bolt in question that takes perfect gear if need be. Feb 9, 2017
Suz Zak
New Haven, CT
 
Suz Zak   New Haven, CT
 
Love this climb! Had a great time swapping leads. Fun moves over the bulge on P3 for sure.

SEE BELOW. Thanks, Andrew! Also, correct me if I'm wrong but is there a Leeper Hanger on P2 bolted anchor? Feb 9, 2017
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
Great climb, maybe a little more good climbing overall than lotta balls. Two good crux pitches and excellent belay spots. In the shade all day. Apr 8, 2016
Chase D
  5.8
Chase D  
  5.8
I agree that this route is better than Lotta Balls. The 5.8 pitches were a blast and the entire route protected well. We used a lot of small to finger-sized nuts and cams. Biggest cam we used was a #2 c4. Brought the #3 but never placed it. The rappel descent is a bit awkward with all the vegetation but still goes pretty quick. Jan 2, 2016
Climbed this route on Saturday, Oct 11, 2014. Did the first two pitches and they were great. Interesting moves at the very start on P1, and past the 2 x bolts to gain the main face. Started off on P3, but decided to retreat due to lack of headlamp, so downclimbed from the top of the crack to the anchors. Rapped and left some gear, then had to build a gear anchor and rap off that to the ground (only a single 70 m rope). Left some gear marked with yellow, white, and blue tape - if you retrieved it, please message me and I'll give a more detailed description. Otherwise, a great climb and I hope to finish it next time I'm down! Oct 27, 2014
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Incredibly fun first pitch. Great route. I didn't clip any bolts on the route and was never runout. The reachy protection on the first pitch especially is insanely bomber--splitter finger cracks in bullet-proof rock. We ran the 70m as long as we could on pitch 3 past the roof. I built an anchor in the trench/crack when we were shy on rope. This left us about forty feet of 5.4 terrain to the top. The descent is straightforward. Two tree-tat raps down the gully that is to the left and down when reaching the top. Stay close to the big wall that is rapper's right and the third/final rap is off of two very new, very bomber bolts. Thanks, y'all, for the new hardware! Oct 26, 2014
mmacelhi
  5.8
mmacelhi  
  5.8
Did only the few couple pitches as we didn't leave the car until 3:30. The start of P1 is awesome fun and the rest of P1-2 is just pretty casual and fun. Left a biner at the P2 anchors and rapped w/ double 60s to the P1 Bruja anchors and back to packs. The pull from P2 was a bit tenuous but went ok May 7, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
Very fun P1 opening zig-zag sequences, finishing with the rightward handrail traverse above second bolt. Past the 3rd bolt near the top of that first pitch, the P1 anchor is now just the one bolt and tad remnants in the thread-thru to its right. Readily available gear placement(s) to further supplement. At the P2 bolted anchor, the P3 roof bolt can easily be spotted. Possible to lose sight of that bolt once up close at the roof, but the line of holds should be obvious. With a 70, able to stretch from P2 anchor below roof to go up and over roof and continue the long long way above to the last big tree approx 15 ft below the topout (nice shaded belay if on a hot day), with about 10 ft to spare. That last ~15 ft is easy and juggy, 4th class-ish. Trivial scramble ~30 ft to climber's left and down to the Lotta Balls descent raps. Aug 19, 2013
Dan Lautzenheiser
Henderson, NV
Dan Lautzenheiser   Henderson, NV
The big balanced flake at the start of the route is now 1 foot shorter. Some climbers after us pulled a little too hard and a big chunk off the top came off. To avoid the scary stuff, you can step across right on face holds and hidden edges to get to your first gear placement. Other climbers mentioned they did a "direct" start left which went about 5.9. Apr 15, 2013
Canon
  5.8
Canon  
  5.8
Phenomenal climb, and definitely better than Lotta Balls! You can get a couple small pieces (0/1 TCU) in below the first bolt. Crux on P1 is the hand rail above the second bolt to the corner - super fun! Lots of nuts on the rest of the pitch.

Wasn't quite sure what people were talking about with the "blind" step on P3. It's very clearly there. Kept thinking it was coming up, and then I was face-to-face with the bolt. Dec 3, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.8
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.8
This is a really fun route with a lot of variety. The first pitch moves are SOOOOO cool. And the third pitch roof/bulge/corner/traverse thingy looks so intimidating, but it's really a one-move wonder (and it's not blind---the hold is right....there). Thought this route was better than Lotta Balls. May 25, 2012
Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
 
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
 
Great route. I loved that the cracks and flakes were so friendly for passive protection. Apr 30, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.8 PG13
John, you need to credit me with that quote. That was awesome when you punched yourself in the face. Ha! Mar 18, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8 PG13
"Pull down, not out." - Nick Rhoads Mar 18, 2011
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
It was a great route but a bit cold (my partner was freezing in a down sweater) in mid February, I thought the route would get some sun but it never came.

Keep going after the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch or it makes pitch 2 a rope stretcher. The route soaked up small chocks and TCU's so pack extra. Feb 14, 2011
nick serrano
Albuquerque, NM
nick serrano   Albuquerque, NM
Don't be confused by the 3rd bolt on pitch 1: the belay anchor bolt (and cool natural thread) is about 50 feet above. Feb 9, 2011
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Well said, Chris! Agreed.

The fun starts right off the deck on that first pitch. I enjoyed the delicate/technical sequences right before and after the first two bolts. This pitch will take lots of your smallest cams and tcu's. Nov 14, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Classic route.

The moves on the first pitch are wonderful, athletic and improbable, but great holds always show up when needed. The big face pitch is an adventure, and though easy, risk mitigation is a little harder to come by than hoped for. Pitch three is massively thrilling, an intimidating lead but all there. Apr 18, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.8
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.8
Wish I had tried McMurray's direct line. As it is, the enterprising leader could protect the reachy/stemmy opening moves without the bolts (but with some balls)and turn this into a truer trad masterpiece. (Full disclosure: I clipped the bolts.)

The airy P3 could also have it's bolt skipped for a PG runout move above the bulge. Exposed but very manageable for the grade.

Fun climb. Better than Lotta Balls.

Flash this and do a lap on Lotta Balls for a fun, low-commitment, close-to-the-road 1000ft day of 5.7 and 5.8. Mar 31, 2010
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
I highly suggest leading directly up the dihedral under the small roof at the start of the route rather than going up left and then traversing back right after the bolts (as the chalk misleads you). This is maybe a grade more difficult, but WAY better movement.

MM Mar 29, 2010
GMBurns
  5.7+ PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7+ PG13
Intimidating at first, but moves are pretty easy for the grade. P1 is long. Mar 2, 2010
Alec LaLonde
  5.8
Alec LaLonde  
  5.8
Careful with those pebbles on the second pitch -- I busted one off 20 ft out on lead. Spicy! Nov 15, 2009
Greg Barnes  
 
The reason the final bolt is non-stainless is that it's extra long - 3.75". Those bolts are not made in that length in stainless (2.75" or 4.75" only). The original bolt was not rusted at all, and with softer sandstone the water evaporates through the rock anyway, so it should be fine for quite some time!

The original bolt on the 5.6 variation (the huge left traverse) is bad, and rusty as well since it's in a water streak. We did not replace that one since that variation is rarely done (and my arm was tired!). Mar 26, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
On March 23rd, 2007, the ASCA replaced 4 protection bolts on this route. Three on the first pitch and one on the third pitch. The first bolt is 1/2" stainless, the next two are 3/8" stainless, and the final bolt is 1/2" non-stainless. Thanks to Greg Barnes for the replacement effort. Mar 22, 2007