Type: Trad, 580 ft, 4 pitches
FA: the Uriostes 1978
Page Views: 22,093 total · 111/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Apr 19, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


360 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.

P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face, passing another bolt, after which you get to a nice belay at a single bolt next to some old tat.

P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.

P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.

P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.

Protection

Nuts, tcus and cams to hand size should do ya.

Photos