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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall
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Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 580 ft (176 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | the Uriostes 1978 |
| Page Views: | 27,586 total · 119/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Hammond on Apr 19, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.
P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face, passing another bolt, after which you get to a nice belay at a single bolt next to some old tat.
P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.
P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.
P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.
P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face, passing another bolt, after which you get to a nice belay at a single bolt next to some old tat.
P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.
P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.
P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.
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