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Suggested Page Improvements to Black Magic
Description Suggestion
A nice route to combine with Lotta Balls, we thought it was just as good. Begin about 40ft right of Lotta Balls, at a sharp flake.
P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face, passing another bolt, after which you get to a nice belay at a single bolt next to some old tat.
P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.
P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.
P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.
P1-150ft. Climb the flake and then pass 2 bolts, heading right at the 2nd bolt into a thin crack. Climb the crack and face, passing another bolt, after which you get to a nice belay at a single bolt next to some old tat.
P2-140ft. Straight up the crack and face to a 2 bolt anchor. Easier pitch, but a bit runout in places.
P3-140ft. Avoid getting suckered into the left crack system by the fixed tcu (ruined, not booty). Instead go right from the belay into a crack with better protection and a more direct line. Address the roof above by blindly stepping right when up seems too hard. Voila! Find a welcome bolt and fire straight up and belay at bushes.
P4-140ft. Climb easy white rock to the top. Descend as for Lotta Balls, down the gully to the climbers left, including rappels.
