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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall
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Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 1,784 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.
Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.
Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.
Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.
Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.
Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels.
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