All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Lotta Balls Wall

Voodoo Doll

Name: Voodoo Doll
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eran’s Magic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Kick in the Balls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.07801, -115.47777
FA:	Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views:	2,106 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.

Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.

Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.