Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown, FRA Julia Snihur, Larry Hamilton, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 2,006 total · 8/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start immediately to the left of Black Magic. If you're a purist, you can actually do this without the Black Magic start, and skip the Black Magic bolts.

Pitch 1: Climb the right-facing corner straight up, continuing past some awkward flakes to easier face climbing. Up and slightly right, an old bolt protects a face move into a fingertip crack in a darkly varnished face. When the crack ends, a few easier moves take you straight up to the first belay station on Bruja's Brew.

Pitch 2: Go straight up 10 feet. At this point Bruja's Brew continues upward over unprotected scoops; instead move right a short distance to a very thin crack. Climb this, then arc to the right, eventually reaching the second belay ledge on Black Magic.

Pitch 3 & 4: Follow Black Magic out past its jutting "nose" and on to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack; a very thin wire w/screamer might be handy