Type: , 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1976, Joe & Betsy Herbst, George & Joanne Urioste, Randy Grandstaff
Page Views: 3,042 total · 18/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from Brice Pollock
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is the giant, right-facing corner on the left side of the Lotta Balls Wall. Because it is shaded from the morning sun, this route is a good choice for those warm-weather mornings. A worthwhile route if just for the impressive FA team.

Pitch 1: climb pleasant cracks to the base of the main dihedral. Pitch 2: 5.8 climbing leads up the dihedral to a good ledge. Pitch 3: continue up easier rock. Pitch 4: easy 4th class to the top.

Descend the Lotta Balls gully with a couple of short rappels.

P1 - 37m, belay in alcove
P2 - 30m of 5.8 followed by 35m of 5.6 to a slanted alcove
P3 - 35m of easy climbing to a tree belay in alcove
P4 - short 20m to top.

Descent:
R1 - Short 10m walk to tree rap (65m)
R2 - Rap down a chimney to another tree rap (10m)
R3 - Rap to ground (50m)

Protection

Ordinary rack

Photos

Climbed today on a very windy day. UGH!This route felt a tad more difficult than Lotta Balls;Seemed like there were more "thinking" moves but a fun, worthwhile route to hop on, especially if Lotta Balls is crowded. There's some rotten hollow rock on the second pitch in a couple of spots and I found it hard to protect on a couple of the "cruxy" sections on pitch 2. Oct 8, 2005
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.8
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.8
Very fun line, although a bit awkward in places. The loose blocks didn't seem to be much of a problem when I was up there, as long as you are careful about what you yard on. Fun stemming on the first pitch and an interesting corner system on the second.

I do have a question for those more experienced climbers out there...there is a short offwidth variation at the start of the 3rd pitch. I know it's not on-route because it was not 5.6. I tried leading it but bailed because I couldn't protect it (the largest thing I had was a #3), and then tried lowering off and doing it on a top rope. I came close to nailing it, but couldn't pull the top section, which I felt to be somewhere in the 11's (vaguely). It involved some nice stemming down low, great arm bars and jams which left my elbows and forearms skinless, and at the top, an overhung fist jamming extravaganza. Has anybody done/seen this crack or know what it goes at? It reminded me somewhat of The Fox, except much shorter and overhung, and maybe a bit wider.

Thanks a lot. Mar 25, 2006
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
You can do this route in three pitches with a 60m rope- on the 2nd pitch, continue past the monster ledge to a smaller ledge with a tree about 50' above. This makes the 2nd pitch a 190' pitch and then the 3rd and final pitch about 185'. Apr 30, 2007
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun climbing. Some runout face on the third pitch; not super hard but makes you think. There's a bolt at the first belay -- not really clear why, as there's also a bomber thread (plus, considering the make-up of the FA party, it seems incredibly disrespectful). We removed a large amount of tat here. Doing the route in four pitches seemed to take advantage of the natural breaks in the climbing. Nov 9, 2014
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
@Ian,

Tried the same P3 variation as you, with similar results...Super fun though!
Next time need to bring double 3s and double 4s to protect. Mar 25, 2016
First off, really fun route and a great option if other classics are taken which can be expected if you show up late. My only comment on the route is about P3 with the runout slab.. It my opinion this face climbing deserves a bolt., you can get great pro ( I threw in 2 gold Camelots and took off) before getting on the face but the next gear is a ways up there. I stayed on the left side of the face and while it's relatively easy climbing the smearing moves to start are not inspiring as your gear is a ways below you. I am all for a little spice and this by no means should deter anyone from this route but just wanted to see if I was the only one thinking a bolt could make this a bit more enjoyable. Thoughts?? One other side note.. If you see dried up rose pedals along the route in the next few weeks it's because I got engaged on top of p2 and the roses I brought up were flying around! Apr 2, 2016