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Routes in Lotta Balls Wall

Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: , 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1976, Joe & Betsy Herbst, George & Joanne Urioste, Randy Grandstaff
Page Views: 2,719 total · 17/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the giant, right-facing corner on the left side of the Lotta Balls Wall. Because it is shaded from the morning sun, this route is a good choice for those warm-weather mornings. A worthwhile route if just for the impressive FA team.

Pitch 1: climb pleasant cracks to the base of the main dihedral. Pitch 2: 5.8 climbing leads up the dihedral to a good ledge. Pitch 3: continue up easier rock. Pitch 4: easy 4th class to the top.

Descend the Lotta Balls gully with a couple of short rappels.

Protection

Ordinary rack

Photos

First off, really fun route and a great option if other classics are taken which can be expected if you show up late. My only comment on the route is about P3 with the runout slab.. It my opinion this face climbing deserves a bolt., you can get great pro ( I threw in 2 gold Camelots and took off) before getting on the face but the next gear is a ways up there. I stayed on the left side of the face and while it's relatively easy climbing the smearing moves to start are not inspiring as your gear is a ways below you. I am all for a little spice and this by no means should deter anyone from this route but just wanted to see if I was the only one thinking a bolt could make this a bit more enjoyable. Thoughts?? One other side note.. If you see dried up rose pedals along the route in the next few weeks it's because I got engaged on top of p2 and the roses I brought up were flying around! Apr 2, 2016
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
@Ian,

Tried the same P3 variation as you, with similar results...Super fun though!
Next time need to bring double 3s and double 4s to protect. Mar 25, 2016
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun climbing. Some runout face on the third pitch; not super hard but makes you think. There's a bolt at the first belay -- not really clear why, as there's also a bomber thread (plus, considering the make-up of the FA party, it seems incredibly disrespectful). We removed a large amount of tat here. Doing the route in four pitches seemed to take advantage of the natural breaks in the climbing. Nov 9, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
You can do this route in three pitches with a 60m rope- on the 2nd pitch, continue past the monster ledge to a smaller ledge with a tree about 50' above. This makes the 2nd pitch a 190' pitch and then the 3rd and final pitch about 185'. Apr 30, 2007
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.8
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.8
Very fun line, although a bit awkward in places. The loose blocks didn't seem to be much of a problem when I was up there, as long as you are careful about what you yard on. Fun stemming on the first pitch and an interesting corner system on the second.

I do have a question for those more experienced climbers out there...there is a short offwidth variation at the start of the 3rd pitch. I know it's not on-route because it was not 5.6. I tried leading it but bailed because I couldn't protect it (the largest thing I had was a #3), and then tried lowering off and doing it on a top rope. I came close to nailing it, but couldn't pull the top section, which I felt to be somewhere in the 11's (vaguely). It involved some nice stemming down low, great arm bars and jams which left my elbows and forearms skinless, and at the top, an overhung fist jamming extravaganza. Has anybody done/seen this crack or know what it goes at? It reminded me somewhat of The Fox, except much shorter and overhung, and maybe a bit wider.

Thanks a lot. Mar 25, 2006
Climbed today on a very windy day. UGH!This route felt a tad more difficult than Lotta Balls;Seemed like there were more "thinking" moves but a fun, worthwhile route to hop on, especially if Lotta Balls is crowded. There's some rotten hollow rock on the second pitch in a couple of spots and I found it hard to protect on a couple of the "cruxy" sections on pitch 2. Oct 8, 2005