Avg: 0.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Lotta Balls Wall
|Beer Run T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Black Magic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Borderline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Bruja's Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cougar Boy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dodgeball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Freaker's Ball T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Kick in the Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lost Marbles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Lotta Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lotta Brews T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Power to Waste T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trihardral 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Voodoo Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Josh Thompson, John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||762 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe route climbs the face just to the left of Lotta Balls. The second pitch involves a serious runout, with 5.9 climbing on questionable rock.
Pitch 1: climb into the initial dihedral of Lotta Balls. However, do not follow the flake out right, but rather continue straight up the corner. The climbing becomes progressively more difficult as the crack turns into a hairline seam. Use your best thin-crack protection skills (as well as a Number 1 Camalot) until the crack ends on a blank face. At this point a delicate step to the right allows you to clip the top protection bolt on the second pitch of Lotta Balls. Continue up a short distance and set up a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. A variation (due to Josh Thompson) avoids the bolt by means of runout 5.10+ face climbing up and slightly left from the end of the seam.
Pitch 2: Step left and climb the steep face (5.9R) straight up over fragile rock. Protection is essentially non-existent for the first 40 feet. Above this point, the difficulties ease and a wide crack leads to the spacious second belay ledge of Lotta Balls.
Pitch 3: Step left from the belay ledge onto the sweeping slab to the left of Lotta Balls. Aesthetic, moderate friction climbing without much significant protection leads up the middle of the slab and eventually joins the crack on the right.
Pitch 4: Easy climbing leads to the top.
Descend left with a couple of short rappels. The serious nature of the second pitch may limit its popularity, but the first and third pitches are quite good and could be combined with the Lotta Balls dihedral for a much more relaxed climb.
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