Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Matt & Mark Hermann, Derek Willmore, Mandy Kellner
Page Views: 1,417 total · 10/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The left side of the Lotta Balls Wall is dominated by a huge fin of rock. This route climbs straight up the fin to a bolted rappel station beneath the jutting overhang. A single rope is sufficient for the rappel if you go down the east-facing wall (instead of straight down the route). The route starts with easy face climbing on excellent rock. When you reach the corner halfway up, the rock quality begins to decline, and care is needed as you approach the belay.

Protection

6 bolts, small cams

Photos

Description is accurate, rock is ok at the top, just needs more activity to clean off the looser stuff.

I thought the climbing was really enjoyable.
Just take gear to protect between the bolts and you won't be worrying about the slightly flaky nature of the rock.

How about a second pitch ?
Sure looks like there should be stellar climbing up that nose out the left side of the belay. Oct 31, 2008
Ben Townsend  
 
A really fun, mellow route to round out a day at the Lotta Balls wall. Rock quality seemed pretty good, pro is great (it could be led quite safely without the bolts), and way easy for 5.8 -- I could believe 5.7 or even 5.6. Nov 12, 2014
Arin Earl
Las Vegas, NV 89085
  5.7
Arin Earl   Las Vegas, NV 89085
  5.7
Both bolts for the anchor are loose but there is a third bolt above it with some nylon tied from that to back up the anchor. Chains are good. I agree, could easily be led on gear.

Yeah, as mentioned above... looks like a second pitch could be added for sure. Nov 2, 2016
Brice Pollock
Oakland, CA
 
Brice Pollock   Oakland, CA  
 
Moves are all there, but chipping black holds made me a bit more thankful for the bolts. 5/6 of the bolts are in the dihedral section. 70m gets you down to the main belay on a single rope. Keep the rope up to TR the beautiful 'Beer Run' crack. Apr 19, 2018
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.7
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.7
Brice Pollock wrote: "70m gets you down to the main belay on a single rope."
Wrong! Not from the base of the route it doesn't, at least not from the same base level as Lotta Balls just to the right.
The only way a single 70 works is if both leader and belayer are starting from the ledge at the first bolt on the route, which is a 20+ foot 4th class scramble up from the base level. But that does actually work pretty well; after the climb then either head left for the standard Lotta Balls descent or downclimb 4th class straight back down to the base. Oct 22, 2018